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Topic: Crius OLED display (Read 41576 times) previous topic - next topic

MAS3

What does this brute force do ?
And do you need to do this every time the display was powered off for some time ?
Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

0miker0

I removed the Oled glass from the board and made my own: https://www.tindie.com/products/miker/096-oled-i2c-display/
After so many fails using the one I had I just have up. If you want the schematic or gerber files then just let me know.

mde110

#32
May 11, 2013, 12:21 am Last Edit: Jul 22, 2013, 08:20 pm by mde110 Reason: 1
?

DMond

hello, i noticed something about the display. when i got it, it did not seem to work, but when i applied a little pressure on the screen it started working. anyone has the same experience?

MAS3

No, but how did you apply that pressure ?
Any chance you formed an extra bit of capacitance by holding your fingers close to the PCB ?
Or did you press down while the display was flat on your desktop ?
And did you have to keep the pressure on to have it working or would it work all the time after some pressure ?
Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

DMond

hi, i think it might be capacitance because it was in between my index and thumb. i have to constantly apply pressure in order for it to work. does capacitance matter?

MAS3

Capacitance does matter in case your problem is like mine was.
If you need a longer reset, you can either use a higher resistance, or a larger capacity.
Both accomplish a longer time to charge the capacitor to reach a higher voltage level so reset ends (reset is most of the times active low).

But as you need to keep pressure applied, this is not the case for you.
You probably have a poor soldering somewhere on the board.

Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

0miker0

It bothered me that I had no luck getting this display to work as easily as the others. I dug around for a schematic to see what parts Crius use but had no luck finding one. Adafruit has a similar 30 pin OLED display that they sell so I created my own custom board from their schematic and grabbed OLED glass off ebay. For kicks I removed the glass off of the Crius display and gave that a try before throwing it in the garbage. To my surprise it worked. The resistors or capacitors that Crius use must be quite different.

Using these components the display works perfectly fine with the default code that comes with the display and also with the adafruit graphics library.




MAS3

Very nice 0miker0.

How do you safely (de)solder that foil without melting it ?
Didn't know the glass can be ordered separately (i guess if you search any thing can be bought, though).
Difference between your board and the crius board, is that you power it from 3 volts, and crius can be connected to 5 volts.
The crius power supply seems to have a diode and some regulator for this 3 volts.
Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

0miker0

There are a few differences. The Crius board had a 3.3v LDO so it can be powered from 5.0v or 3.3v. It also has an 11v or so boosting power supply on pins 28 or 29. The glass has the ability to generate this on its own so I'm not sure why Crius doesn't do this. Removing the glass is super easy. The yellow plastic looking part is a high temperature plastic like kapton tape so your soldering iron will not damage it. Just start on one end and lift it up and then the next pin. I have another board that should be here in a week or so that is a 5.0v or 3.3v type. It uses a 3.3v LDO and a new i2c level converter for the sda and scl lines. The glass can be purchased off eBay for $6. Just make sure you pick the 30 pin type. I grabbed one off eBay that works fine but is blue. Another white one is on the way with a different part number so ill try that one out.


akatsuki

Hey mike, I tested your code on my display and its just showing gibberish, is my display busted ? Ordered from dx.com https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyft1wlw9ig23gh/photo.JPG

mde110


Hey mike, I tested your code on my display and its just showing gibberish, is my display busted ? Ordered from dx.com https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyft1wlw9ig23gh/photo.JPG


You have to fix the reset circuit (pin 14)!

0miker0

I had no luck getting the Crius display to work so I made my own board, removed the glass from the Crius and soldered it onto my own board. It works great now. I have the schematics and code available if anyone wants it. There is a charge pump enable command that is needed and I also have a rotate 180 degree command.

MAS3

Hi akatsuki.

That is where i ordered my display too, and i got the same result.
If you visit the product page of SKU 180386, you will find my forum post (scroll down)on DX, where i point to this thread which holds the trick that solved my trouble (and it looks like yours is similar or the exact same).
I used a 100 Ohm resistor in the red wire, and after that both my displays haven't failed yet.
Someone else posted another solution 3 days ago where he instructs to short pins 19 and 20.
He also reports the address is 0x3C, i found mine to be at 0x55.
I haven't checked to see if shorting these pins changes the address.
Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

mde110

#44
May 29, 2013, 07:56 am Last Edit: May 29, 2013, 12:02 pm by mde110 Reason: 1
Pin 19 and 20 are for the MCU Bus Interface Selection.

With incorrect restet circuit: You can try to disable the power from the display for about 8-10 sec and then power up again. After several attempts it will work.

Other way if you know what you do: Short the PIN 14 manually to GND for a short time. Attention, you have to know, its a short and you stress the DC/DC booster!

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