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Topic: Homemade Atmega328P-AU programmer (Read 4740 times) previous topic - next topic

Jack Christensen



Clever.  I'll have to modify (after searching) the six-pin ISP header.  Thanks.


Yeah, they have that one in there too. I've been using them, they work well for me.

Coding Badly


Have you tried it with DIP sockets?

Jack Christensen



Have you tried it with DIP sockets?


That I have not. Might not work as well, as the pins are usually not square or as rigid. But it might work well enough.

Docedison

I saw that for the first time on Jeenodes.. DIY PCB's, staggered pins and I thought it for a special connector till I fitted a 6 pin female to the holes and it didn't fall out..

Doc
--> WA7EMS <--
"The solution of every problem is another problem." -Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
I do answer technical questions PM'd to me with whatever is in my clipboard

xl97

#19
Apr 18, 2013, 06:04 pm Last Edit: Apr 18, 2013, 06:13 pm by xl97 Reason: 1
nice post.. (working through a similar dilemma myself)

this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27195__Atmel_Atmega_Socket_Firmware_Flashing_Tool.html

is sweet!  (too bad its $20.00!! though)   :(

but would sure fix the problem with boards that use the ATmega328P-AU chips and FORGET TO PUT THE ICSP headers in there!  :)

your project sorta reminds me of this:

1 Inch Square of Goodness board-

http://thecustomgeek.com/2012/07/09/one-square-inch-of-goodness/
http://thecustomgeek.com/store/products/one-square-inch-of-goodness/

it comes as a 'kit' without the ATmega328P-AU chip soldered on.. so you can put blanks in there..
(similar to your solution)

the problem I was (am) having is that the crystal on this board is 16MHz.. and the end board I am trying to put the chip in is a 8MHz board...  so the hobby king cable would fix that!


question:

I see the hobby king cable mention needing to beused with an AVR programmer..etc..etc..

would the Arduino/IDE suffice in this instance as well? or does one need a special DEDICATED programing hardware?

(I have only ever used the Arduino/IDE for flashing bootloaders)

thanks

Coding Badly

I see the hobby king cable mention needing to beused with an AVR programmer..etc..etc..


Correct.  That product is just a cable.

Quote
would the Arduino/IDE suffice in this instance as well? or does one need a special DEDICATED programing hardware?


What did you use for a programmer?  An Arduino running the ArduinoISP sketch?

Bear in mind that cable has a 10 pin female connector on it.

xl97

thanks for reply..

I understand its just a cabled.. (it says needs AVR programmer)

I wondering it NEEDS to be a USBasp/USBTiny (or whatever) type programmer (ie: a dedicated piece of hardware)..

or if I can use my Arduino as ISP 

(like I have in the past with flashing blank 328P dip chips.. and others.. or even using Optiloader sketch on Arduino and loading Optiboot to chips)



my current 'situation' is..

I have that 1ISoG board linked to above..  (this has a 16MHz external crystal on board)

the blank chips I am flashing with this 1ISoG board, are going INTO a 8MHz external resonator pcb..  (the final PCB is missing the ICSP headers from its design, so I working towards a solution to make this easier)

having this HobbyKing cable, means I can assemble the FINAL pcb's..and just flash in-line..

using the 1ISoG board..

I run into 'problems/new issues'..

the board used in FLASHING is 16MHz.. final board is a 8MHz board..

been all the map 'trying' to understand all the ins/outs of this process.. even trying to compile a new 8MHz version of Optiboot..

(although Im wondering what difference is between this new one and the Optiboot for Pro/Pro-Mini @ +3.3v/8MHz?..  Im hoping/asuming its because of the board used to flash.. and thats why I went the long way to compile a new Optiboot bootloader?)

anyways..

yes I see the jTAG cable has 10-pin header on it... but does it need to be used?

I read comments and got this pinout:

Pins of connector of this adaptor:
1 - VCC
2 - MOSI
3 - GND
6 - RESET
8 - SCK
10 - MISO

and the othe end only has 6 spring loads pogo-pins on it..

In my mind.. I am hoping to:

take the 10-pin connector on the end.. stick header pins/jumpers to:

1 - VCC
2 - MOSI
3 - GND
6 - RESET
8 - SCK
10 - MISO

and connect to my Arduino board to: (respectively matching above)

+5v
D11
GND
RESET
D13
D12


Load Arduino as ISP sketch to Duemilanove 2009 board..
(power down)
hook up jTag/flashing cable from above
(power on)
Open Arduino IDE
(select com port)
(select either this new Optiboot +3.3v/8Mhx version or.. just Arduino Pro/Pro-Mini +3.3v @ 8MHz from boards menu)
Burn bootloader

thanks!


hiduino

Yes, ArduinoISP is just another type of AVR programmer.

Don't assume the 10-pin header is always jtag.  This is still a ICSP 10-pin header interface.


take the 10-pin connector on the end.. stick header pins/jumpers to:

1 - VCC
2 - MOSI
3 - GND
6 - RESET
8 - SCK
10 - MISO

and connect to my Arduino board to: (respectively matching above)

+5v
D11
GND
RSET
D13
D12


It should be:
Code: [Select]

and connect to my Arduino board to: (respectively matching above)

+5v
D11
GND
D10 - This needs to generate the reset signal to the target.
D13
D12



SouthernAtHeart

Quote
take the 10-pin connector on the end.. stick header pins/jumpers to:

1 - VCC
2 - MOSI
3 - GND
6 - RESET
8 - SCK
10 - MISO

and connect to my Arduino board to: (respectively matching above)

+5v
D11
GND
RSET
D13
D12


I think you'll need pin 10 instead of reset?  This was mentioned early in this thread

xl97

sorry you are correct.. D10 should go to RESET...  (typo)


jTag was used as a 'generic' term for the cable..(nothing to do with pinout or order)  :)

thanks!


SouthernAtHeart


Edited my layout a bit, and will see how it works.  Yes the diode is for testing purposes, so I know it's flashed before soldering it on an important board.  I first designed it to sit inside the perimeter of the UNO, but then changed it so it sets on pins 8 thru 13, on the outside, with the chip on the very outside of the little 1" square board.  I have a tiny spring clamp, about like a clothes pin, I can clamp the chip on with that, visually inspect it for squareness, and flash away. 
I'll let you know how it works in about a month.

It did not work. :(  I think squeezing a chip to a bare board with a clothes pin is not sufficient.  I ordered a TQFP32 programmer (like a ziff socket) from china for $22

Docedison

Depends, I think on the 'size' of the clothes pin...  IMO
I programmed a whole lot of 18 pin soic processors the same way in the late 90's and I had perhaps 2 or 3 failures and those were the only chips that didn't come from one tube to the programmer and back in a second tube (I dropped them before programming them). I was frankly surprised to find it didn't

Doc
--> WA7EMS <--
"The solution of every problem is another problem." -Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
I do answer technical questions PM'd to me with whatever is in my clipboard

xl97

I have used the 1 inch square of goodness board to hold down a ATmega328P-AU chip and flash it.. (not optimal though)..

I have also tried the cable from Hobby King (posted above)..

worked fine too.. and alot easier too!

(again holding a cable to the chip to flash)

SouthernAtHeart

Hmm, I will check my schematic and try again.  If the TQFP package would've slipped a little when I tried it, what is the likelihood that I ruined the chip? I've always heard that they're pretty hard to brick. If I can't get it working ill solder one on and see if it works but if it doesn't work then I still won't know if its because I bricked it earlier.

xl97

I 'believe I bricked one using the 1ISoG board..

its a very 'tight' space.. with components all around it.. a slip would not be good! :)

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