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Author Topic: SOLVED:Anybody own the MPJA 9616PS / Circuit Specialists CSI3003SM power supply?  (Read 1546 times)
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I bought the MPJA 9616PS power supply about six months ago, and have been very happy with it. The other day, though, I was using it to charge a lead acid battery... and I plugged the battery in backwards. Feeding all that current through the power supply didn't do it any good. It looks like R6 took most of the punishment.



So... if you happen to own the same model, would you mind opening up yours and telling me what R6 was? Based on the lack of debris, I'm tempted to think it's just a jumper rather than a resistor with a nonzero value. But I'm hesitant to just stick a wire in there and power it up.

Some day I'm going to learn about using fuses...
« Last Edit: August 17, 2013, 02:51:11 pm by AndyCC » Logged

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I don't own one so I can't help, but why not call the company… they might know/check for you!


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Sadly, they haven't provided the info. I suspect they just stock the power supply and re-badge it. Maybe someone knows an equivalent model number from a different manufacturer? It's a 0-30V, 0-3A power supply but it's not the Mastech / Kaito HY 3003D or the Sako SK1730SL1-5A.
« Last Edit: August 10, 2013, 03:53:44 pm by AndyCC » Logged

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Showing some more pictures would probably help identifying the PSU.

If there are any markings on the PCB besides component designations, that could also be helpful.
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Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

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Good thinking! Here's a picture of the power supply:



Additional pictures are here:
http://www.powersupplydepot.com/0-30V,-0-3A-Variable-Benchtop-Power-Supply/9616-PS/

As for markings - there aren't a lot. The main board has "SH52683R", and the controls board (where the knobs are) has "QJE7820.1010V1.1", but no names or other info that might point to the manufacturer.

Thanks for all the good suggestions!
« Last Edit: August 10, 2013, 05:23:02 pm by AndyCC » Logged

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oh I have the 5 amp version from http://www.circuitspecialists.com/

I cant right this second but I can pop it open sometime this week

I actually paid 2 dollars less for the 5 amp version on the site above, and got a free set of needle nose pliers, if anyone is looking
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi3005sm.html
« Last Edit: August 11, 2013, 11:23:26 pm by Osgeld » Logged


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Thanks, Osgeld! I'll modify the title of this post for posterity, and look forward to hearing what your value for R6 is. Hopefully it's the same for the CSI3003SM as the CSI3005SM - at the very least, now I know a place to pick up a replacement supply cheaper!

Thanks again!
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well bad news

mine has a slightly different looking board, and R6 is a big beefy shunt curled up ... so even if your R6 is a shunt its going to be very hard to find the material and exact resistance that it was

and if it wasnt a shunt (which it looks pretty thin for a 3 amp shunt) then I dunno
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Hmm... measuring the resistance of the wire I've got left doesn't yield much info either. I guess I'll just have to grab some wire, stuff it in there and see what happens.
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Today I replaced the existing lead in there (which was 20 gauge wire) with some 22 gauge hookup wire I had on hand. So far so good - the voltage seems close.

I don't think I quite trust the current anymore... at rest the meter's reading about 0.2 A rather than 0. I'm not sure if that has to do with my choice of R6 or with something else I stressed when I pushed 13.8 V through there backwards.

At any rate, I have a power supply again, even if it's a little degraded. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts/ideas!
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If the burnt part was a shunt to measure the current, then you will be off with those measurements.
Maybe you could connect some different parts of which you know what current they take and see what is indicated.
Then you know how far off the indicated current is.
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Have a look at "blink without delay".
Did you connect the grounds ?
Je kunt hier ook in het Nederlands terecht: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/board,77.0.html

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and then you might be able to offset it using the trimpots on the control ocb
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Thanks, I'll give those ideas a try. I've also noticed a suspiciously bulging capacitor pretty close to R6 - that might also have suffered in the event. Once I get a replacement, I'll see if that helps things.
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