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Author Topic: LIPO BATTERY HELP  (Read 1137 times)
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hello I have this 5000mAh battery LIPO-20c, 11.1v, which is the ampere
5000 * 20 = 100A. I want to put the arduino one burns?

I also need to volage regulator 3.3v output 3.2 A, which I recomendan?

Thank you!
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I want to put the arduino one burns?
What?

Quote
I also need to volage regulator 3.3v output 3.2 A
Try this:-
http://uk.farnell.com/diodes-inc/ap1084d33g-13/ic-ldo-reg-3-3v-3to252/dp/1825261
But dropping down from 11V will dissipate close to 25W so you would be better off with a switching regulator or DC to DC converter. It needs to be at least 15W so it could be pricy.

http://uk.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/lsm-3-3-10-d5-c/dc-dc-conv-non-iso-pol-1-o-p-33w/dp/1577218
« Last Edit: August 21, 2013, 01:26:19 pm by Grumpy_Mike » Logged

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What are you on about?

I really don't understand your question.

So you have an 11.2v battery.  So?  The arduino (one? you mean Uno?) will take 12V fine through the barrel jack - it might just get a bit warm if you plug too much in.

And for 3.2A at 3.3V you need a switching regulator.  There's lots around, but laying out the circuit and selecting the right components is sometimes a little tricky.  Best off with a pre-built 3.3V switching regulator board - check eBay.
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I want to put the arduino one burns?
What?

Quote
I also need to volage regulator 3.3v output 3.2 A
Try this:-
http://uk.farnell.com/diodes-inc/ap1084d33g-13/ic-ldo-reg-3-3v-3to252/dp/1825261
But dropping down from 11V will dissipate close to 25W so you would be better off with a switching regulator or DC to DC converter. It needs to be at least 15W so it could be pricy.

http://uk.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/lsm-3-3-10-d5-c/dc-dc-conv-non-iso-pol-1-o-p-33w/dp/1577218


sorry, i need to connect this, lipo to Arduino Uno is no risk that the arduino to burn?.
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Lacey, Washington, USA
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Let's not make fun of people for whom English is a 2nd language.

I'd not want to use a linear regulator to take 11.1V down to 3.3V. 2/3 of the power will be wasted as heat.

Why do you need 100A? Do you understand that just because a battery is capable of a lot of current, current is controlled by the load.

Now - do you really need 3.2A at 3.3V?
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Lacey, Washington, USA
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You can connect an 11.1V LiPO battery to an Arduino through the barrel connector. The on-board regulator will regulate it down to the 5V that the Arduino Uno needs. It will only draw the current that the Arduino requires.
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I'm using 9 of these chips, World Semi WS2803D http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-Worldsemi-WS2803D-18-Channel-RGB-Constant-Current-LED-Driver-DIP-WS2803-PWM-/150693237604?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2316045364 with 54 ledo rgb,
and consumes 60mA each led rgb * 54 = 3.2A, that's why I need the voltage regulator, which will be connected directly to this lipo
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Let's not make fun of people for whom English is a 2nd language.

I'd not want to use a linear regulator to take 11.1V down to 3.3V. 2/3 of the power will be wasted as heat.

Why do you need 100A? Do you understand that just because a battery is capable of a lot of current, current is controlled by the load.

Now - do you really need 3.2A at 3.3V?

I do not need 100a, but is the only one that I have lipo batery.
chitps my walk to 3.3v for 54LED rgb * 60mA = 3.2A, is what I need.
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Either find an adjustable 4A+ switching regulator circuit on eBay, or get a 4A+ 5V switching regulator (look for "UBEC" - there's millions), and then use a collection of 3.3V LDO regulators to drop the last 1.7V.  Maybe use one LDO per chip - 60mA*6 = 360mA - not too much heat dissipated per LDO - 1.7*0.36 = 0.612W.  Of course, you could always use 2 LDOs per chip, and have half the current and thus half the power dissipation per LDO.
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The Arduino can connect directly to the battery through the DC barrel connector.  Use a 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug with positive to the center pin, like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-x-DC-Power-Plug-2-1mm-x-5-5mm-x-14mm-Free-Ship-/250887390753?p.

Then power the all the WS2803D separately off the battery using something like this: www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-Converter-Module-24V-12v-convert-to-5V-5V-5A-25W-output-power-adapt-adapter-/261020317417?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&h

Make sure the grounds are connected together. 
« Last Edit: August 21, 2013, 05:23:57 pm by DirtBiker » Logged

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That chip runs from a -minimum- of 3.3V, up to 5.5V. In fact, it seems to be rated for only 20mA @ 3.3V, and still only 30mA @ 5V. So you can't get 60mA per LED from this chip. 30ma x 54 = 1.62A

So you really need 5V to get the maximum current of 30mA per LED. I'd get a step down switch mode power supply SMPS that can accept a range that includes 11.1V (LiPO do get lower as they discharge) and puts out at least 3A. And still connect the 11.1V to the Arduino's barrel connector.
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That chip runs from a -minimum- of 3.3V, up to 5.5V. In fact, it seems to be rated for only 20mA @ 3.3V, and still only 30mA @ 5V. So you can't get 60mA per LED from this chip. 30ma x 54 = 1.62A

So you really need 5V to get the maximum current of 30mA per LED. I'd get a step down switch mode power supply SMPS that can accept a range that includes 11.1V (LiPO do get lower as they discharge) and puts out at least 3A. And still connect the 11.1V to the Arduino's barrel connector.
By the wording and numbers used I thinking it is RGB LEDs at 20mA per colour, so 60mA per LED spread across 3 20mA sinks.
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OK, so 20mA per LED element. Which happen to be contained three to a package. 18 elements driven per IC. So we're still talking 3.2A.

I'd look for a 3.3V to 5V SMPS that will put out 5A or 6A.
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Hi, sorry, I was watching a lipo-battery,http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19481__Turnigy_4000mAh_Spektrum_DX8_Intelligent_Transmitter_Pack_.html
and this seems more suited to my needs. are saying?
8ampere this strip is 7.4v.
Now suppose that the capacity would need less voltage regulator, one would need 3.3 v, 4A. regulator which would you recommend?
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You won't be able to use all of the capacity as the Arduino's linear regulator requires a minimum of 7V to regulate 5V.

And an 11.1V 5Ahr battery pack has more energy available than the Ahr rating would indicate, when using a SMPS to regulate down for the LEDs.
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