- D3, D4, where are they? Was that in something you sent me, I could not see. The big black packages north, and northwest of IC2 are oriented the same as in the photo.
That sounds right.
- IC2 no shorts. Can barely make out marks in photo but they seem to be oriented same, "SFED" turned 90 degrees clockwise
That sounds right too (except I read it as "SFEB"").
How about PC2 (the other 47uF/16V electrolytic cap nearby)?
Measuring 9.4V across L6, and 0.3ma through the jack.
Sounds like an open circuit to me (I'm not sure where that 0.3mA is going though).
To be clear, with the positive voltmeter lead touching the left-side of L6, and the negative voltmeter lead touching the right-side of L6, you measure +9.4VDC. L6 is not hot-to-the-touch. Then all signs point to L6 either not being soldered properly, or L6 has failed.
The resistance of L6 should be small (the datasheet says that it's 0.025 ohms). If testing it while it is still connected to the circuit, then place the positive lead of your ohmmeter on the left-side of L6, and the negative on the right (otherwise you may be testing the diode next door). Do not have the power supply connected when testing the resistance of L6. A high resistance means that L6 is kaput.
To attempt to get the board to work, you could remove L6, and short the two pads that L6 was using to each other (with a short piece of wire, or a solder-blob). L6 is there as a simple filter, and the circuit should function if it is replaced with a 'short'. (to be kind to the circuit, use a nice regulated desktop DC supply if you have one).
**The danger ** - Suppose L6 has failed because there is indeed a short farther down in the circuit. By shorting-out what was L6, you would then be applying the full-capability of the connected supply to the sneaky, yet-undiscovered, short. Possibly releasing the magical blue smoke held inside the offending component.
Or, you could swap the board...