Only 2 weeks? Wow! Most stuff I get on eBay takes at least
LEDs? 3mm are indeed neater by and large. Best bought by the 50 (or 100), pick your colours.
Resistors: you need to have an idea beforehand just what you need them for - you are not likely to use lots of different values, you may want lots of the same for current limiting LEDs. If a LED has a voltage drop of 2V and running from 5V, you want to drop 3V, if you expect to use 10 mA (will be more than bright enough with modern LEDs), that is 3V/10mA or 330 ohms. So you may want a lot of those, some 1k for various uses, 4k7 for pull-ups, 47k for isolation of high-impedance inputs. And perhaps
just one pack of many values "just in case".
Breadboard: Get both? Get a big one. There are two versions of the "MB102", one has the power rails on each side continuous from one end to the other, the other has a break in the middle which I find quite annoying as you are most unlikely to want them separate and you have to remember the link (has been the cause of funny problems reported on these boards
). Get a couple of the small ones (about 17 columns, no side rails) for separate devices.Definitely
get an 8 by 8 matrix display module with the MAX7219. Or two or ...
I have a quantity of the "pinned" jumpers as you need for longer distances anyway. The pre-bent ones seem a bit fiddly to me, and overly expensive for what they are. Then again, I have (somewhere) pieces of old telephone cable which could be used to make such jumpers (though the gauges used nowadays are thinner and less suitable for jumpers). So keep your eye out for wire to make them yourself.
Capacitors: You primarily want 0.1µF bypass capacitors for use when putting actual ICs on your breadboard.