Go Down

Topic: Controlling IKEA's DIODER (Read 10 times) previous topic - next topic


Mar 17, 2009, 10:47 pm Last Edit: Mar 17, 2009, 10:48 pm by MikMo Reason: 1
That is exactly what i did. ULN 2003, and seperate powersupply.

Remember to connect the ground of the ULN2003 to Arduinos ground, otherwise you will get strange results when you try to make "white" light by setting R, G and B to the same value.


I had a bit of trouble understanding how to supply power to the ULN2003 at first. But I think I got it figured out. The ULN2003 will let the current flow through the ports 10-16 when they are triggered by port 1-7. Hence it will be placed AFTER the LED and ground. At first I thought I had to put the ULN2003 before the LEDs in the circuit.  
The 9th pin on ULN 2003 is only necessary when powering inductive loads such as motors.

This is the layout I came up with, please let me know if there are any serious flaws with it.



I went to IKEA today (NEVER GO TO IKEA ON SATURDAY) and looked at the DIODER...for $50, not worth it. They are nowhere near as bright as the Dealextreme bars. More accurately, all four of the DIODER strips together aren't as bright as one Dealextreme RGB bar. I didn't bother buying a set to measure the current.
Unique RGB LED Modules and Arduino shields: http://www.macetech.com/store


In ancient times I belive going to IKEA on a saturday was used as a mild punishment for convicts.

Well there's absolutely no reason what so ever to buy the IKEA DIODER then. Costs nearly five times as much and is about ten times less bright.

Now that I have the Deal Extreme RGB LED strips I must recommend them aswell. Sure delivery wasn't that fast but still within two weeks.

Go Up