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Author Topic: How to connect/solder RFM69 module to Uno  (Read 1166 times)
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Well, I'm newbie struck.  I brought a couple of RFM69HW chips thinking to connect them to an Arduino Uno.  Then when I got them, I realized the spacing between the connection points is not .1" bread board spacing, so my breadboard pins don't fit!  The hole spacing is about half of bread board spacing.

I made a mess of one of them trying to solder on pins from alternating sides smiley

I don't mind having to make a permanent thing of it, but it would be nice to be able to move it from one Uno to another.  What's the best way to solder wires to this?





« Last Edit: March 19, 2014, 11:23:52 pm by arusr » Logged

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Got a datasheet?
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Got a datasheet?

Yes, here it's here, in PDF though:
http://www.hoperf.cn/upload/rf/RFM69-V1.3.pdf
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Its likely either 2mm or 1.27mm spacing - pin-headers are available for both spacings.

You'll need a breakout-board with appropriate female headers or to solder wires
directly to the module.

Moral:  Read the datasheet, then purchase.
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Ooooh, I didn't know there were different pin headers.  Thanks, it's 2mm from the package drawing.
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xbee uses 2mm headers also.
I think mouser carries them.
These guys do also, here's an example
http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product=RECEPTACLES-SOCKETS+PCB+MOUNTED+2MM+SP/exact_match=exact
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So...after I get the headers, I'd still need to attach them to the Arduino.  Since the spacing is smaller than the breadboard dupont cables I have, does that mean the headers don't really help me?  Or is there different size dupont cables too?

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Standard ribbon cables are 1.27mm (0.05") spacing, so can be spread out and soldered to
various pin header styles (fiddly but do-able).
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Easier to solder to the header pins than direct to the device.
Then you can always reuse the device later without a solder mess on it.
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Ok, thanks for the guidance.

Do you guys use anything to electrically insulate all the pieces for a semi-permanent setup?  I'd have a protoshield on top of an Arduino, but also have wires solder from the protoshield to the wireless module...I don't want the wrong pins to touch.  Saran wrap?

Easier to solder to the header pins than direct to the device.
Then you can always reuse the device later without a solder mess on it.
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Heat shrink tubing. Potting compound. Silicon. 2-part epoxy. Maybe hot glue.
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There are a couple of RFM69 breakout board designs out there that make breadboarding easier:

https://github.com/uChip/RFM69W_BOB
https://github.com/BitKnitting/RFM69BreakoutBoard

The first is available from OshPark:

http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/bJRprI06

I ordered and received some over a month ago, still haven't managed to find the time to solder them up :-(
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The break-out boards are so pretty...
But, if pretty is not important and you want to be able to use on a solderless breadboard, you can try my technique:



RFM12B shown, but 69C is the same idea.  The resulting DIP headers work perfectly in prototyping.
javascript:openLightBox(1944,0);

If bailing wire was easily to solder...

Ray


more pix here: http://www.hackster.io/rayburne/hoperf-springs-eternal
« Last Edit: March 31, 2014, 10:37:19 am by mrburnette » Logged

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