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Topic: Freeduino Mini USB (Read 2316 times) previous topic - next topic

bwevans

Hello all,

I thought it might be interesting to introduce a Mini variant that did two things: have built in USB for easy interface and did away with Basic Stamp conventions so that all i/o pins are accessible by the breadboard. Designed in the spirit of the BoArduino and RBBB but surface mount with no assembly required (in production), as small as humanly possible, and includes the 2 extra analog pins as a bonus. Oh and it had to be Diecimila compatible with the auto reset and 500mA fuse!



So here is the first working prototype of the Freeduino Mini USB. I have already made some changes to the design as you will see in the schematic and board images largely because of a boneheaded mistake not to bring out the reset pin. So the next prototype will jump from 24pin to 26pin making room for RESET and 3V3 and moves those pins around to make them a little more standardized which it may or may not be. The size will stay the same at 1.75" x .65" (think longer basic stamp). The next version will have larger and hopefully more readable text labels. Also, I brought out an LED from the first IO pin of the FTDI 232 chip so Id like to hear what you think the purpose of that LED should be: power on, tx&rx, ?? (Im leaning towards tx&rx). Otherwise let me know what you think in general.

Once the design has been tested thoroughly (at least 1 more proto run) I will publish the files (based in part on the Freeduino reference) and then if the interest is there we will see about getting some distribution for it. I am also planning a Sans-USB version and maybe a lower part count, USB Key version (think memory stick) whenever time allows.

Enjoy!
Brian





ladyada

i like it a lot, i think it needs to have a 'pin 13' led tho so that people can do the 'blink' test. There's already a resistor so why not? (the resistor should come after the pin, i think...since the diecimila does that.)

bwevans

Yeah I agree too. I tried to cram it in there but it was awfully tight, and ruined the symmetry too! I put the resistor in there because it did fit and a cheap led isnt too hard to hook up for an indicator light. (I still have my NG!) Maybe there is still a way.

B

ladyada

theres tons of space :)
move one of the 10pf caps to the other side, where the (cc) is
then put the LED there

trialex

Sweet as!

Mini-B plug, excellent.

nkcelectronics

Quote
Sweet as!

Mini-B plug, excellent.

Better if Mini-B through-hole is used... Pb free soldering is not very friendly with some SMD devices (bulky ones).

mellis

Interesting timing.  Keep your eye on the Arduino blog.

nkcelectronics

Quote
i like it a lot, i think it needs to have a 'pin 13' led tho so that people can do the 'blink' test. There's already a resistor so why not? (the resistor should come after the pin, i think...since the diecimila does that.)

Yes, definitely the resistor goes after the pin... I think it caused some problems in one of the NG boards.

Digger450

Nice work!  Look forward to being able to purchase one.

spiffed

Quote
i like it a lot, i think it needs to have a 'pin 13' led tho so that people can do the 'blink' test. There's already a resistor so why not? (the resistor should come after the pin, i think...since the diecimila does that.)

As someone who'se designed them both ways, you want after the pin, otherwise you always have to remember that pin13 is "different". While having the LED/resistor and pin in parallel is different too, it's not as much of a consideration.
I whole-heartedly agree with the PIN13 LED. While I understand it might not alway be useful in a Stamp-like role, I think it's come to be an expected part and a key diagnostic bit.
Have you thought of using something smaller like the CP2102, if you're feeling squished.
iDuino - MaxSerial - [url=http://spi

The_Bongmaster

Quote
Interesting timing.  Keep your eye on the Arduino blog.


when will we see what we is lookin out for? :3
B-dui in creation.

bwevans

So Dave Im not sure whether to wait or try to beat you to the punch!  ;D

I will see what I can do about the pin13 led. Maybe theres a way.

I stuck with the FTDI 232 because Ive heard the drivers are more stable cross platform than the CP2102. I could have used its smaller package but that would be a pain to prototype so I didnt. And honestly Ive used this chip before so I stuck with what I knew!

Speaking of that chip, Im having a hard time enabling the rx&tx led on that general purpose i/o pin its connected to. Im using MProg to change the 232r eeprom but its not seeming to make a difference. Has anyone done this?

Im hesitant to go with pth mini-b just because thats going to increase the difficulty of assembly. Sparkfun uses the same method of assembly that I do and they will typically use the same part. Something to try out tough.

-Brian



nseidle

#12
May 12, 2008, 09:25 pm Last Edit: May 12, 2008, 09:39 pm by sparkfun Reason: 1
Hi Brian,

You're right about the drivers for the CP210x. SiLabs is a bit behind with their platform support.

The RX/TX LEDs are enable by default. But they're sink pins, not source. Reverse your LED, cut trace and tie to VCC and it should work.

Lead free solderability is a problem of the past IMHO. miniUSB SMD connectors stick real good :)

-Nathan

bwevans

#13
May 14, 2008, 06:57 am Last Edit: May 14, 2008, 06:58 am by bwevans Reason: 1
@ Nathan: D'oh! Thanks so much! I knew there was something and it was staring at me all along. Ok, Ill get on that and fix it up.

Otherwise, Ive managed to get the pin13 LED crammed in there. I flipped the xtal and row of caps/resistor which allowed me to juggle it a bit and get it wired up as suggested. The question here is, is the led too far away from pin13 and/or how should it be labeled?

Past that, Ive tweaked some of the spacing and little minor things but I think its close to another proto run. Any more suggestions?

-Brian


(Pending COM led fix...)

ladyada

if you had space for a seperate 'tx led' would you put it in?

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