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Topic: ZIFduino (Read 5703 times) previous topic - next topic

kg4wsv

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One reason that you might not want to rotate the ICSP header is that some shields use it to bring the reset line up

Duh, I know I was forgetting something. Thanks Mellis.  I'm actually working on a shield that does just that. (I have too many projects going!)

Nevermind on the rotated ICSP.

-j


Bitty

#31
Mar 09, 2008, 05:57 pm Last Edit: Mar 09, 2008, 05:58 pm by Bitty Reason: 1
Awesome, thanks for the feedback.  I love the fact that you can use SMT caps.  I hadn't even thought about that possibility.

I really don't know why the board is trimmed so close.  I've seen other board layouts that have traced over the dimension lines with a silkscreen line, so I'm going to give that a try on the next run.

Good point about the LED orientation markings, I'll get that changed.

I don't know about an auto-reset jumper.  I haven't seen anyone clamoring for it, and the only complaints I've ever seen are about the older Arduino boards not having it.

kg4wsv

Quote
I don't know about an auto-reset jumper.  I haven't seen anyone clamoring for it, and the only complaints I've ever seen are about the older Arduino boards not having it.

The ZIFduino is the first board I've used that has auto-reset so I don't have any personal experience yet, but there have been posts from folks who are using host-based applications (flash, etc) that have had problems with opening the serial port caused an undesired reset.  I think some more advanced programming techniques on the host may solve the problem, but a jumper may be easier.

Having said all that, it's not a big deal either way.  Those were all very minor nits to pick - the ZIFduino is terribly useful just the way it is.  The way I use the Arduino system (I frequently target a custom circuit), it could even supplant my Arduino NG as my main development board.

-j


aballen

put mine together... but cant test it yet :(

I have not jumpers, and yeah, the zif I purchased is no good :( also for some reason I ordered massive 22pf caps too... I have to remedy that.

Since I was out of 330 ohm resistors, I used a 220, I hope that is ok. Its the closest I have on hand.

here it is so far


Bitty

#34
Mar 11, 2008, 03:07 pm Last Edit: Mar 11, 2008, 03:09 pm by Bitty Reason: 1
Yeouch, I hope you haven't soldered that ZIF socket in place yet, that could be fun to remove.  The board looks great so far.

If you or anyone you know have any old hard drives laying around you should be able to steal a jumper from there.

I've been going back and forth on the hole spacing for the caps, but I've decided to leave them as is.  The caps in the kits will have the smaller .1" spacing to keep a cleaner look throughout the board.  Turns out it also gives the option of using SMT parts.  In the end, it really doesn't matter what size they are as long as they do their job and don't get in the way.

The 220 should be fine for the power LED, but you may want to wear sunglasses while looking at it. ;)  The production version will call for a 1K.


aballen

I found some 330s, and I have a desoldering iron... where did you get that nice black zif?

Bitty

Digikey part #A302-ND or Jameco part #104003.  They're within pennies of each other.

eustace

Got mine assembled and working - at least it loads a sketch without error.  I will test the i/o pins tonight (in and out and pwm).  Please suggest any other tests you would like run.
Mine assembled like a dream (except the SOIC, that was more like a nightmare).  Other than changing the cap designation to 0.1uF instead of 100nF, I really can't think of a suggestion.  Next - a machined aluminum enclosure!  Woohoo!

Bitty

If you have any shields I'd like to hear how well they fit and work.  Other than that, just testing the pins like you plan to do and loading sketches via the USB interface should cover it pretty well.  Since it's just a change of layout for a known good circuit, it's more a matter of seeing how nicely it plays with devices designed to work with the Arduino.

eustace

I ordered the tall crystal instead of the low profile one (oops) so I'll need to lay that down before I put any shields on.  The pins line up, though.  I have a protoshield and ladyada's new motor shield to try.
Sketches load without problems.  Output works on all pins (got blinky led).  Serial output shows up in the monitor.  I'll test PWM and inputs tonight after class.

eustace

PWM outs all work - analog ins all work - all pins work!  :D

aballen

hey bitty I should have my last few parts in a few days, I'll get cracking soon as they arrive.

Bitty

Sweet, keep me updated.

In the meantime, I've been doing some puttering and made quite a few improvements in the layout.  Most notably, reducing the vias to four and shrinking the height a little.



And here's a preview of things to come...



aballen

I thought you were switching the crystal for an oscillator w/caps, wouldn't that eliminate the need for C2 and C3?


Bitty

It's set up so you can use either a crystal or an oscillator.  A lot of people don't care either way, but a lot of people do.  I figure it's better to give the option.

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