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Author Topic: Want to make an Arduino Mini-kinda Clone?  (Read 5222 times)
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It's the cable that the FTDI Basic Breakout pinout is based on. The mini is designed to use either of these for programming.
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Thanks for your quick informative replies.
On the document, they said that FTDI use RTS to generate the reset and Spark Fun uses the DTR for reset.  If there is any preference?
Thanks again.
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DTR seems to generally be preferred if it is available. Recent versions of the Arduino IDE assert both pins when it is trying to reset the Arduino. I thought I read somewhere that RTS could possibly be pulled low at other times (causing unexpected resets), but I can't find the reference, and if there ever was such a problem, it may have been fixed. From what I can find, it looks like the choice of DTR over RTS is a historical one. It was chosen for reasons that are no longer relevant, and RTS support was added later to make it fully compatible with the TTL-232R cable.
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Thanks for the quick replies again.
OK, I'll select DTR as the reset generator.
I am happy and comfortable for my design now.
I hope I can fit it in a 0.7x1.2" board.
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I did some more research. Apparently, RTS works out-of-the-box on OSX and linux, but requires a configuration option to be set to work under windows.
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RTS auto reset has never worked for me on linux.

That's why I've retired my FTDI cable and switched to the BUB, which provides DTR.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2009, 05:34:19 am by madworm » Logged

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Thanks for your help.  I think I will settle for Windows only.
I will use only 5 pins including DTR and the board should be able to fit in 0.7x1.2".
Thanks for your support again and will keep you posted.
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Well I jumped in with both feet.

Ordered the components.  Will order the boards tomorrow.

Hopefully, I won't have a pile of melted bits when I get done.

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Ok....

So I got my boards from batchpcb.com, took about 2-3 weeks.

They are soooo cute.  *muhahhah*

Anyway, I ordered 5, they sent me 10.  Which is cool.

Now my question.

Do I need to do anything to prep these?  Do I have apply solder to the shiny solder mask area things.

I have extras, so I can screw up.  But I would prefer not to.

I watched the pcb solder tutorials, so I think I have the soldering under control.  I just need to know what prep work needs to be done.

Thanks.

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The silver spots have a thin layer of solder already applied to prevent the copper from oxidizing, but it is not enough to hold your components on. You will have to add solder as you place components, and don't forget the flux.
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