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Topic: Arduino quit working (Read 2826 times) previous topic - next topic

smeezekitty

Today, I plugged it into a 6v wall wart which actually puts out 10v and it started working correctly. within 5 seconds all the lights came on steady and it quit working.
The computer will not recognize it and it does not work on USB.
I think the regulator might have shorted and took out the chips  :'(
What do I do now?
The output was not shorted because I was just using the internal pin 13 LED.
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

MarkT

That doesn't sound good.  I would suspect that power supply is faulty and putting out nasty high voltage spikes.

It might be something else of course - perhaps a bad/intermittent connection on the power causing the chip to crash - test it on a known safe regulated supply (try a 5V one to the 5V pin?)
[ I won't respond to messages, use the forum please ]

smeezekitty

The FTDI chip is shot.
The power supply is tested known good with no spikes on a scope.
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

CrossRoads

Will your board run from 3 AA batteries connected to the Vcc pin?
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

retrolefty

Quote
The FTDI chip is shot.


How have you determined that?
There is away to test the FTDI indepently from the processor chip if you are interested.

Lefty

smeezekitty

It will not run from batteries right to the 5v pin.
I know the chip is shot because the computer no longer reads it as a USB-to-Serial converter.
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

smeezekitty

Should I order all the chips and start practicing surface mount soldering?
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

CrossRoads

Another option is remove the FTDI chip, add some wires to a 6 pin male header so you can connect an external FTDI programming adapter. I believe all the pins you need to connect are accessible at the bottom of the female headers.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

smeezekitty

From http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUyetZ5RtPs
It does not look that hard to replace the chip (famous last words).
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

CrossRoads

0.05" spacing is not too bad after 0.1" spacing of dip parts.
0.025" - now that gets difficult! 4 pins in the space of 2.
Can probably get it off without much problem, small clippers to cut the leads and then unsolder what is left.
Going back on, different story. Need some solder flux & small diameter solder - we bought a roll of 0.025", same as the pin spacing! Didn't have solderflux at the time, after seeing the videos I think we're gonna get some before we try that again.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

smeezekitty

One more question.
What is the IC other then the USB interface and microcontroller?
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

CrossRoads

Which arduino do you have? I assumed you had a deumilanove as you indicated a bad FTDI chip.

If so, I would hazard a guess that you are referring to the 8-pin LM358 comparator.
Or the 3 pin MOSFET. Or the 3 pin regulator.
http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/arduino-duemilanove-schematic.pdf
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

Lifthanger

my ftdi died seemingly without a reason too. exchanging the chip worked.
If you want to do this get a liquid flux pen. smd is not that hard if you got one!

smeezekitty

Do you think the LM358 survived the +5 being raised to +10?
I am going to order a new regulator, FTDI and atmega. and basically rechip the board.
I will try to get a liquid flux pen.
Avoid throwing electronics out as you or someone else might need them for parts or use.
Solid state rectifiers are the only REAL rectifiers.
Resistors for LEDS!

CrossRoads

LM358

http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/L/M/3/5/LM358.shtml

All the datasheets I looked at showed it having a power supply range of at least +/-16V.
On my duemi. it is an ST brand LM358, single power supply, good to 32V.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

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