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Topic: Arduino Sound triggered photography (Read 6789 times) previous topic - next topic

timekeeper

Not the first, but always nice to show some results  XD Long exposures in dark room and triggered the flash on sound.



Used piezo for sound detection as in the trigger kit from the hiviz.com website. Hooked it up to my arduino to be abled to set the delay end reset time as I prefered. SCR to shortcut flash. Simple yet effective project.

Playing with different set-ups and delays (time between hard sound and flash trigger). Some results:







NO MORE THUMB MUSCLE!!!

biocow

I love the board game and the glasses. What did you do to get the glasses moving like that?
10 PRINT CHR$(7)
20 GOTO 10

timekeeper


I love the board game and the glasses. What did you do to get the glasses moving like that?


tape them on a shelve on wheels  :P


click to view notes, glasses taped to black shelve on wheels, on top of an inclined shelve (white)
NO MORE THUMB MUSCLE!!!

thegeekway


timekeeper


What camera are you using there?

nikon d300s with sigma 70-200 f2.8 @ iso 200, F5.0 & 3s
NO MORE THUMB MUSCLE!!!

timekeeper

#5
Feb 09, 2011, 02:39 pm Last Edit: May 24, 2011, 01:49 pm by timekeeper Reason: 1
Last result, getting to the point of perfection i'm looking for!



Breadboard diagram (left part is explaind on HIVIZ.com, arduino and part in red rectangle I've added myself):


and the code at the moment is:
Code: [Select]
                       
const int ledPin = 13;    
const int meetPin = 2;  
const int flashPin = 7;    

int meet = LOW;            

void setup() {                      
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);    
digitalWrite(flashPin, LOW);  
digitalWrite(meetPin, HIGH);  
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);      
}

void loop()                              
{
meet = digitalRead(meetPin);      

if (meet == LOW){                      
delay(100);                              // delay between sound and flash
digitalWrite(flashPin, HIGH);       // flash goes off
digitalWrite(flashPin, LOW);      
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);         // LED during 'dead time'
delay(4000);                            //to make sure I only get one flash
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);        
 }

}
NO MORE THUMB MUSCLE!!!

majordecibel

+++ Check out The MajorDecibel Project Review, a third party project review site spotlighting electr

jflinchu

tried completing this project myself, can not seem to get the flash to fire. followed the diagram you have shown here.. i think it may be the scr, mind sharing the part number you used? or possibly any other thoughts as to what might case it?

timekeeper

diagram was wrong. Black and white wires should be reversed. Updated the picture
NO MORE THUMB MUSCLE!!!

focalist

#9
May 24, 2011, 03:07 pm Last Edit: May 24, 2011, 03:30 pm by focalist Reason: 1
>>> APPLAUDING <<<

I use an optocoupler with a lot of success, 2n35 I think.  I'd think a SSR (Solid State Relay) would be overkill, but would work.  Just remember older external flashes (and cheap new ones) sometimes dump a couple hundred volts or more across those terminals.  An NPN transistor isn't enough.

What type of flash, by the way, and what mode?  After a couple of paying gigs, I've finally actually purchased what might be considered my first "Professional" level hardware purchase, a Canon 430EX flash.  First TTL flash I've had and I must say it's night and day (literally in some respects) in terms of managing exposure.  I've not had time to "play" with it yet however, and I'm thinking that a TTL flash has to be ideal for stop motion- it quenches the strobe mid flash once appropriate lighting is sensed.  That means very short duration if set up right, I would think.. I've already found that my Interfit (el cheapo) 150w/s heads just can't be used for stop-motion, the flash duration is far too long.  They are great as a portable portrait setup, but those big tubes firing all that time.. motion blur when you are trying to avoid it.. painful.

Right now on my "to do" list is an idea you'll like:  I have collected and am triggering TEN salvaged flash units from disposable 35mm cameras.. with variable, programmable, and triggered delays, driven by Arduino.  Special Effects strobe that ought to be good for a ton of interesting effects....
When the testing is complete there will be... cake.

AWOL

Quote
Just remember older external flashes (and cheap new ones) sometimes dump a couple hundred volts or more across those terminals

MOC3020, every time.
Fires my mix of old and new flashes flawlessly.
"Pete, it's a fool looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart." Ulysses Everett McGill.
Do not send technical questions via personal messaging - they will be ignored.

hdborges

HELP PLEASE!

I have follow this circuit but i have a problem.

I am using a wireless trigger PT-04TM to trigger the flash and when i connect to hiviz part all work ok, the flash´s trigger.

When i make the connections with the second SCR EC103D and Arduino, the trigger and flash don´t work, any suggestions???

I think the signal from piezo to arduino to the second SCR is no strong to trigger the the PT-04TM...

but i am a dumb in this questions 

AWOL

An SCR is polarised - have you got the flash lead the right way around?
"Pete, it's a fool looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart." Ulysses Everett McGill.
Do not send technical questions via personal messaging - they will be ignored.

hdborges

All connections are like the diagram

AWOL

Have you checked the polarity of the flash lead?
"Pete, it's a fool looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart." Ulysses Everett McGill.
Do not send technical questions via personal messaging - they will be ignored.

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