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Author Topic: DIY inkjet PCB's????  (Read 5580 times)
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I love stripboard, but would love to be able to print my own PCBs without having to depend on my friends to print off the tracks on their laserjets!

Is there anyway to make your own PCB using a inkjet printer?  
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yerp smiley all you need is photo paper and an iron to do it.

heres a video of Bre Pettis ( <3 ) showing you how to do it.

/watch?v=urv6jArKp6M

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thaks for the reply, but that's using  Laserjet printer (the toner powder is very different to the ink in an inkjet smiley-sad)
« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 05:09:12 am by n00b » Logged

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I just got some of this stuff to try - I'll let you know how it goes

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/PCB-Equipment/Drafting-Aids/Jetstar-Standard-and-Jetstar-Premium-inkjet-artwork-films/66161

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Thats some interesting stuff right there!

but how do you know if you are using either dye-based or pigment-based ink?
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I just got some of this stuff to try - I'll let you know how it goes

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fasteners-Production-Equipment/PCB-Equipment/Dr...

sorry, but to me it seems that this is just a good quality transparent sheet suitable for inkjet printer, you cannot use the iron method to print pcb using this.
it is made for Photoengraving of the PCB (generally not suitable for home made PCB...)

I might be mistaken trough...
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Almost all consumer inkjets use dye-based ink. Newer, expensive, pro photo ones that claim high image longevity use pigments and are fairly heavily marketed as such, you'd probably know if you had one. I can check from your model number if you like.

List of pigmented ink printers here:
http://www.redrivercatalog.com/cardshop/help/list-of-pigment-ink-inkjet-printers.html
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elwing - yes this is definitely just for producing artwork for photo-sensitised board
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Photoengraving of the PCB (generally not suitable for home made PCB...)

I have been using that method for home made PCBs for over 40 years now. I think it is quite suitable.   8-)
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was thinking about the price when thinking not suitable... it is surelly the best way otherwise...
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Considering decent monochrome laser printers are well under $100 (sometimes even with a full toner cartridge), why go to the trouble and expense of trying to use an inkjet?
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Hi - not ink jet, but I've had much success using commercial PCB transfer sheets at the local copy shop. Just put in the transfer sheet and copy the layout on to it, then iron on to the copper. Most copy machines are laser-based these days.

The transfer sheets are cheap and reliable. I started using these for my custom boards after wasting time with an old laser printer along with the laser print-on-paper transfer method. Would rather waste the time on writing bugs in my code...  smiley
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I've actually just finished attacking a brand new Epson TX100 for exactly this purpose. ($50 brand new... why not...)

The key as mentioned before if using etching with Inkjet is that it needs to be pigment based... Epson DuraBRITE Inks are pigment based, however the Yellow and Magenta are reported to work best (or "all color black").

Checkout http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm
If you really want to build this though, I suggest setting aside a few hours and reading all of http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30951 ... there is *lots* of little bits of needed info in that thread about Paper Sensor setup and "pre-print" dancing you need to account for smiley

I've not yet etched, but i've printed - and it works great... just gotta pre-heat the boards a bit to help the ink-wetting....

Once I have finished making a "pull-through" tray instead of the carrier based board I'll be putting some entries up on my SLiDA Dev Site...

Just remember.. you need to be using *refilled* inks (MISPRO Inks are the best results one there) if using HP's or Canons. Only the Epson DuraBrite inks are Pigment based - the Caliga or whatever its called alternate Epson ink brand *wont* work. Epson is also the choice because the "PiezoElectric" print heads apparently allow them to use the pigment inks without clogging, unlike the print head technology in the alternate brands (which work, but reportedly clog easy...)

Also - really only works reliably with FeCl3 at room temp - very warm FeCl3 or  other etching solutions will remove the ink much easier..

Anyway - I'll be sure to share results when I've finished...!

- Adrian
« Last Edit: August 31, 2009, 05:32:21 pm by adr1an » Logged

Checkout my projects development blog @ SLiDA

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Iv decided to pick up a refurbished laser jet from Ebay, as they are only £30  smiley

Anyone know if 600dpi will do the job for transfer method?

  
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Anyone know if 600dpi will do the job for transfer method?

I did it for many years with a 300dpi LaserJet III for many years using the blue iron-on sheets.  Resolution won't be a problem for you.  And 600dpi from a laser is far better quality than 2400dpi from an inkjet.
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