If by "pcb" you mean "printed circuit board", I am puzzled why you'd want to start with that before building the circuit and proving to yourself it works.It might make more sense for you to build this circuit first on a breadboard, then on a perfboard, and only then, after all versions work OK and you know exactly what you want, do it on a pcb.If you mean something else, please explain.Thanks,edude
Yes, I noticed the same thing in the more recent Arduino IDE versions.I think with the newer software there is some conflict between the "callback" interrupt service routine (ISR) and the serial communication, which in this sketch is only used for debugging and diagnostic output.As a workaround, try the following:Take the latest version posted in the playground, and simply comment out *all* serial output.Because all this serial output is for diagnostics only, it should have no effect on the functionality, assuming all is working.With this workaround, you fall back on the flashing red LED, steady red and steady green for diagnostics.(Obviously more such steady or flashing LED-based outputs can be added as needed.)If you get the green LED to turn on when an FSK card is placed close to the inductor coil, then the circuit is working.Note that this circuit specifically handles FSK encoding, and not ASK, so the RFID card you test *must* be FSK type.Also, make sure your inductor coil resonance is maximized. Even though the coil is driven by Arduino's 5V ptp (square wave) output, at resonance the coil should have 35V ptp or greater (sine wave). The lower that voltage the lower the sensitivity, so this is a crucial requirement for this circuit to work.Please let us know your results.
When you say you are getting "nothing", what do you mean exactly? Are you not even getting a steady red LED?Obviously you'd get no diagnostic serial output if that's been disabled.And how do you know which kind of RFID tag you have? The encoding type is not normally printed on the tag, so if you have random one, it could easily be ASK (instead of FSK), or a higher frequency one.For example, I have a batch of sample tags from Parallax, and all of them are ASK (because last time I checked it was the only kind their circuit supported - might be different now).As far as tuning, what kind of ptp peak voltage are you getting now? If it's not peaked properly, and if you are not getting 35V ptp or thereabouts, you will not get a proper detected signal.As far as building the circuit as a pcb, sure, I would do that, but *after* you test it and get it to work as a breadboard. The reason is that it's very easy to make a few small mistakes while laying out the pcb, and the pcb looks very ugly if you need to patch it later (and the patching process may damage other traces causing more problems).The correct process is to get the "prototype" or breadboard working, and only then, once you feel confident you know what you are doing, to lay out the pcb, if you want to go that way.I guess the part I am missing is if you have already built a breadboard version, why not get that to work before proceeding with the pcb?BTW, I am not on irc, but you can pm me if you want.