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[Reply #30 on:]

CrossRoads,

I envy the size of your board! I can only do 100mm*80mm on my EAGLE lite version. So what is the principle of securing the wires with pins by wire wrapping? Will the wrapping ever get loose over time?

I wouldn't say that board looks much larger than 100x80 and especially if you were doing double sided pro-fabbed you could fit that all onto a smaller board in EAGLE.

Perhaps you should learn KiCAD

[Reply #31 on:]

CrossRoads,

I envy the size of your board! I can only do 100mm*80mm on my EAGLE lite version. So what is the principle of securing the wires with pins by wire wrapping? Will the wrapping ever get loose over time?

I wouldn't say that board looks much larger than 100x80 and especially if you were doing double sided pro-fabbed you could fit that all onto a smaller board in EAGLE.

Perhaps you should learn KiCAD

You're right. His board is about 4"X3", so 100mmX75mm maybe. But if I design something, I will have to put something everywhere since I know I will run out of space soon. Plus, he's using the third dimension with wires, which I barely can on a PCB.

I've tried KiCad but it takes differently than EAGLE. I'll have to re-do all my libraries then. I'll try it again sometime.

[Reply #32 on:]

I'll have to re-do all my libraries then.

The great thing about KiCAD is that you can import any EAGLE libraries.

[Reply #33 on:]

Liudr,
I generally build up on Velleman ecs1/2.  That's what is pictured.  $4 if you you  shop around, or find other similar brands for less (with more dubious quality hole spacing (uneven) and pad quality - I've never had a pad lift with multiple soldering/unsolderings for example.) Futurlec sells inexpenive cards, I haven't trued theirs.
The ecs1/2 is 80x100mm, I like using that because that's what eagle will support, and expresspcb also I believe.
I have also used ecs1/h when I needed something quick and just cut it in half or into the size pieces I needed.
The picture below shows 6 pieces of ecs1/2, with cut-down ecs1/h filling the gap in the middle left & right.
Parts of the 2 small cards were incorporated with the standalone arduino to make the card above, which does not do the time & score lights, but just the score detect & Lights & sound creation, & drives a remote set of lights.

The wires wrap around the pine about 5 turns around a square post if you do it right, and they do not come off or get loose. You hold the wire as you start twirling the wrapper, and the wire goes on nice & tight. You have to physically unwrap it to get it off, it won't slide off if its not really loosened up first.

I wish I had a wrapped up board at home to take a better, closer picture.

I do mine manually, you can buy an expensive squeeze handle wrapper also, just gets in the way as far as I'm concerned tho.

[Reply #34 on:]

CowJam and mowcius,

Your phi-connect kits were dropped off at the post office yesterday. Hopefully you will get them in a week's time. Thanks again for trying them. I've tested GLCD with 18" cable and the display is trouble free. Just stick with 40-wire 40-connection IDE cables. The 80-wire 40-connection ones are no good for this board.

Anyone else wants to try?