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Topic: Costume Lighting and control (Read 829 times) previous topic - next topic

Hokay. I am making a costume with I'd like to be quite complicated. For the project, I need somewhere in the neighborhood of 25-30 individually controllable LEDs, 4-5 various motors, 4+ FET power controls, a temperature sensor, at least one accelerometer, possibly a few bend sensors, a clock, and a OLED LCD. I'll be running said LEDs, several strings of EL wire, and moving various external parts with the motors. This should be powered off a 12v belt battery pack which I already have.
Now the part where you go "what is this guy doing here"
This is basically my first BIG Arduino project...
I've gotten FET control working already, as well as buttons, but nothing this big. I'm pretty good at soldering and reasonably proficient in electronics theory. I don't know to write Arduino code at all really, no programming since VB.net several years ago.
Currently I have 2 nanos and an Uno, though i can source more parts if necessary.

Is there any hope for me?
Thanks in advance,
Static

Pauly

Sounds like you have a lot going on there.
You might need a motor shield for the motors.
http://www.adafruit.com/products/81
You will need to do something with all those LEDS.
I suggest looking up Charlieplexing (A way of controlling a lot of LEDs on a few pins)
http://www.instructables.com/id/CharliePlexed-LED-string-for-the-Arduino/
Also, with all those I/O pins you might need an Arduino Mega.

Good luck

I think I will pick up a motor shield, actually, thanks!  As for charlieplexing, could I possibly use a LoL shield with breakouts instead of having them all on the board?  And can I possibly combine that with the i2c backpack so it doesn't use ALL my I/O ports?  That would be ideal I think.  Probably gonna have to serial connect 2 boards either way, but using all my pins on the LEDs won't work out.  Also, would less arduinos with more load or less arduinos with more load use more power?  This is all going to be running off battery power so this is a major concern as well.

CrossRoads

"2 nanos and an Uno" so you've got basically 60 IO pins, less what you are using for Comm's between boards (D0, D1 for serial messages).
Sounds like enough per your list.
Arduinos won't be the main users of power - it will be all the mAs going thru the LEDs and motors & such.

Maybe look into a big battery holder, like 3 D cells & power everything from 4.5V
http://www.batteryholders.com/
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

The FET control is for the EL wire which runs at 12v.  Would it be (effecitve?  Efficient?  optimal?) to do the LEDs with FET control or charlieplex?  Only way I know to do that since I'm not really ready to try and build my own driver and the ones I have work nicely with it.  I'm trying to stick with 12v power since I have a lot of that.  I've got 2 2000mah DVD player battery packs and a 2200mah model airplane battery, which I will need a voltage divider to read the levels of...  I'm debating on a gerbings battery pack for heated motorcycle gear.  It's 4Ah lithium and it's really small.  It makes sense I suppose that all the power draw would be from accessories.  Also, is there a better way than charlieplex for the LEDs?  Most of them will be external which seems prone to accidental failure which would take out a chunk of my effects if they're all chained together.

CrossRoads

As you appear to have the IO pins, I would go for individually controlled LEDs. Can mount the current limit resistors all in 1 place, then run 2 wire out to each LED for make ease of placement (or 1 wire per LED (anode driven by arduino thru the resister) and you share a common ground wire if convnient.
Or just get some CAT5 cable, pull the 4-5 pairs of wire out, and use that, pretty convenient).
You'll need 5v for the arduino's & LEDs, suggest a switching down converter like this
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2177
30 LEDs x 10mA =  300mA, + 60mA forthe arduinos, room to spare for other stuff. LED mAs could go up, pay attention to max total sourcing of each ATMEGA chip.  From the datasheet:

3. Although each I/O port can sink [with common anodes at 5V and arduino low output to turn them on] more than the test conditions (20 mA at VCC = 5V, 10 mA at VCC = 3V) under steady state
conditions (non-transient), the following must be observed:
ATmega48PA/88PA/168PA/328P:
1] The sum of all IOL, for ports C0 - C5, ADC7, ADC6 should not exceed 100 mA.
2] The sum of all IOL, for ports B0 - B5, D5 - D7, XTAL1, XTAL2 should not exceed 100 mA.
3] The sum of all IOL, for ports D0 - D4, RESET should not exceed 100 mA.
If IOL exceeds the test condition, VOL may exceed the related specification. Pins are not guaranteed to sink current greater
than the listed test condition.
4. Although each I/O port can source [with common cathodes at Gnd and arduino high output to turn them on] more than the test conditions (20 mA at VCC = 5V, 10 mA at VCC = 3V) under steady state
conditions (non-transient), the following must be observed:
ATmega48PA/88PA/168PA/328P:
1] The sum of all IOH, for ports C0 - C5, D0- D4, ADC7, RESET should not exceed 150 mA.
2] The sum of all IOH, for ports B0 - B5, D5 - D7, ADC6, XTAL1, XTAL2 should not exceed 150 mA.
If IIOH exceeds the test condition, VOH may exceed the related specification. Pins are not guaranteed to source current
greater than the listed test condition.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

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