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Topic: breadboard (Read 3102 times) previous topic - next topic


I'm totally new and I've begun to test the basic examples. I've tried the blinking one, and now I want to try the digital read serial. But my problem is that I have a totally different breadboard than in the example. I mean my problem is that I don't really know how the breadboard works. What do the letters A to J and the numbers 0 to 60 mean. And for me there's a top line and a bottom line called X and Y. What are those for? The breadboard in the example has two top and bottom lines, and they use both in the example. So where can I read about the breadboard?

Other question: Where can I get a 220 Ohm rezistor from?


An electronics shop?
This... is a hobby.


I've looked after breadboard. I'd like to ask if I'm right:
So when I'm sticking different wires to maybe A5, B5 and D5, it's like I'd connect them together. I think I've understood it.


A picture of the breadboard would help, but here is a general explanation:

If you have the breadboard oriented so that the middle channel (if it has one) is oriented horizontally, the numbers will run horizontally, and the letters vertically.

Generally, each column (usually groups of 5 rows, an empty center channel, and another group of 5) is connected together in a strip, which you have discovered.

The channel in the middle splits the board in half - this channel is 0.300 inches in width - the standard spacing of a regular DIP IC. The column on the other side of the channel has its own strip of connections, and aren't connected to the other side (so - for each column 1-60, rows ABCDE forms a connected strip, then rows FGHIJ on the other side of the channel forms a separate connected strip).

The rows and columns are numbered as coordinates (I'm sure you already understand this) - they don't mean anything more.

Now - the strips on the top and bottom; these are power bus strips, and are usually connected -horizontally- across the length of the board. Sometimes, there may be a break in the path in the center of the strip; you can either leave that as-is, or bridge it with jumpers if you need the entire length to be "live" with power. The top and bottom strips are separate from each other, though (so if you wanted power on both, you would have to jumper them together). Typically, the each row on the strip is marked, one red, and one blue or black - red for the positive rail, blue/black for the negative, or ground rail.

The reason the rails are broken up in such a manner (and perhaps split in the middle as well) is so you can possibly have multiple supply voltages for the same circuit if needed. Splitting them up allows for this. Just make sure you -know- which rail is which voltage so you don't burn anything up by plugging it in wrong. Color code all of your connections as you build a circuit; it will help prevent mistakes. Don't power up your circuit until it is completed and triple-checked. Don't make changes to the circuit with the power connected (this is a big NO-NO).

Sometimes these rails are removable from the main breadboard (they fit in slots on the breadboard). You can remove them, place them away from the main board, connect them both on one side, or leave them on opposite sides. Other breadboards have them fixed in place. You might find it handy to mount the breadboard itself onto something sturdy like a piece of acrylic, steel, aluminum plate, or thin plywood. You can mount multiple boards together (and they are also sold this way) to make much larger breadboards and circuit layouts. You can also add binding posts and banana jacks/posts for power input. You can add switches and potentiometers, and other items for prototyping. You can get really, really creative with your experimentation station over time, if its important or useful for you.

I will not respond to Arduino help PM's from random forum users; if you have such a question, start a new topic thread.


thank u very much!:)




This breadboard of mine is somewhat more complex than most.

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