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[Reply #15 on:]

Here we go again! This time everything should be on!

Pin header for the RF receiver module, the right chip, even some LED's just because...

[Reply #16 on:]

Ok, now the tricky bit - draw a polygon (button looks like a piece of paper with top left corner torn off - click a corner follow the perimiter of the board, must finish up where started or will get "illegal poygon" error or similar), name it GND, on both sides of the board.  Your thru holes will connect them.
Click the Rubberband button, and let eagle connect everything up to GND.  May even be to "ripup" the ground traces.

IC2 is the regulator?  Move R1 & D1 left  Move IC2 up. Now you can draw a Rectangle under the body (next to the polygon) and extend it down the board, it can act as additional heatsinking for you if you are running from higher voltage, like 12V, vs something lower, like 7.5V, such as

http://www.dipmicro.com/store/DCA-07510
or 9V
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/DCA-0910

can add a mating connector also
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/KLDX-0202-A
or screw terminals in parallel with the pins you appear to have now.
Add +/- labels to the Vin pins so you don't accidentally miswire them.
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/DG126-2P
Check the size of the holes. These look Phoenix brand.

Which are the pins for the Rx module?

[Reply #17 on:]

Once you get the hang of it Eagle is really powerfull and friendlier than it seems.  PCB design on the other hand is more than connecting wires, you need to pay close attention to the physical layout.  Current paths are often overlooked by the beginner, especially gnd and power.  As the previous poster suggestion, using polygons is very helpfull for power and ground.  Another point is trace widths, the smaller they are the more fragile the pcb is to build.

[Reply #18 on:]

Newest attempt...

[Reply #19 on:]

And now with the polygons and stuff... does this look right?

Ok, now the tricky bit - draw a polygon (button looks like a piece of paper with top left corner torn off - click a corner follow the perimiter of the board, must finish up where started or will get "illegal poygon" error or similar), name it GND, on both sides of the board.  Your thru holes will connect them.
Click the Rubberband button, and let eagle connect everything up to GND.  May even be to "ripup" the ground traces.

Think I got that done... But not sure if the top layer is all one big flat connected one? Or does it only look that way?

can add a mating connector also
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/KLDX-0202-A
or screw terminals in parallel with the pins you appear to have now.
Add +/- labels to the Vin pins so you don't accidentally miswire them.
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/DG126-2P
Check the size of the holes. These look Phoenix brand.

I only need the 1x2 pin header I got there right now And I might add a 1x2 next to the voltage regulator too, so it is possible to bypass it. The reason for this is because it is maybe going to be powered by a 230V > 5V usb adabter. And I will then make custom wires anyways and solder it directly on the board to make it as small as possible and not use space on the usb connectors.

And got an protecting diode on for miswireing

Which are the pins for the Rx module?

Bottom right corner. JP3

Hmmm... Maybe also add pin headers for FTDI breakout board... hmmmm

[Reply #20 on:]

Hmm, after putting the polygons on, I am now getting "Stop Mask" errors when checking it with the dru file.

Update... or... it must have looked like that before... now to figure out how to make it right...

[Reply #21 on:]

Stop mask errors are inherent in the design of symbol parts - its like outline markings that go over the pads on connectors. No way to get rid of them. Its things like Clearance Errors that you have to worry about.

"The reason for this is because it is maybe going to be powered by a 230V > 5V usb adabter."
If that is the case, the 7805 as wired now will only be in the way - adding a way to bypass the diode & regulator when Vin = 5V would be needed, otherwise you will not be getting 5V to the board.  Alternately, make the unused 3rd pin Gnd, and use that as 5V source to other things when using Vin >7.5V. 
Ok, I see you add that in a 2 of the 3 pictures.
Its fun,isn't? Like electronic puzzle solving.

The ground planes look good. You would tweak a few lines here & there & let the planes fill in the bigger white spaces that are there.

[Reply #22 on:]

Stop mask errors are inherent in the design of symbol parts - its like outline markings that go over the pads on connectors. No way to get rid of them. Its things like Clearance Errors that you have to worry about.

"The reason for this is because it is maybe going to be powered by a 230V > 5V usb adabter."
If that is the case, the 7805 as wired now will only be in the way - adding a way to bypass the diode & regulator when Vin = 5V would be needed, otherwise you will not be getting 5V to the board.  Alternately, make the unused 3rd pin Gnd, and use that as 5V source to other things when using Vin >7.5V.  
Ok, I see you add that in a 2 of the 3 pictures.
Its fun,isn't? Like electronic puzzle solving.

The ground planes look good. You would tweak a few lines here & there & let the planes fill in the bigger white spaces that are there.

I was wondering... Why is it that the board should be filled like that? Is it to give it more strength or something? I noticed that there are way fewer traces because it is now all one big trace, but what purpose would it serve to make sure the small parts where it isn't in gets filled?

[Reply #23 on:]

Once you get the hang of it Eagle is really powerfull and friendlier than it seems.

True enough!  A good comprehensive tutorial would go a long way towards shortening the learning curve.  So far I haven't found much.

[Reply #24 on:]

The ground planes help keep signal noise down.
And now you don't have  a ground trace snaking all over the board so it looks like fewer signal, making it easier to route the rest.

[Reply #25 on:]

And now... Why is all the pads marked with that crossing stuff?? :O

That weren't there before

[Reply #26 on:]

You can turn that off - when you select the layers to view, go down the list and turn things on/off to see what you need to work with.
I usually select None, Apply, then turn on most of 3 thru 31 except Names & Values, those get in the way of routing. Then turn on 1 or 2 depending on which layer I am working. When all done, turn Names back on, Smash the parts, and move the names to easily viewable spots that the pads & vias don't interfere with.

[Reply #27 on:]

the names can be moved?! How? I have tried but cant' grab them.

[Reply #28 on:]

Right click the + on a part, and select Smash, then you can move the name.

[Reply #29 on:]

Think I got it as I want it now...

I just hope the parts and holes and so are also as they should be