const bool ShiftPWM_invertOutputs = 1; // if invertOutputs is 1, outputs will be active low. Usefull for common anode RGB led's.
I think he was refering to this line in the example.pde:Code: [Select]const bool ShiftPWM_invertOutputs = 1; // if invertOutputs is 1, outputs will be active low. Usefull for common anode RGB led's.I am sure this is just a binary switch. 1 is true, so it would invert(as he said active low). 0 is False, not inverted(active high).
The problem comes when I disconnect the Arduino from the USB cord and attempt to power it via 9V.
QuoteThe problem comes when I disconnect the Arduino from the USB cord and attempt to power it via 9V. If you are using those standard small 9vdc batteries then that is the reason for the failures, it just doesn't have the current capacity to handle your load. You need to use batteries that support the current requirements.Lefty
What kind of battery/batteries should I use
QuoteWhat kind of battery/batteries should I useA bigger one.
This made me laugh way more than it should have How about this one? >> http://goo.gl/C82OT (58 Ah - hooah!)Seriously though, LEDs are quite power hungry little beasts and will deplete small batteries in short order. Like Lefty says, you need to determine your device's current draw combined with the intended use for your device. If you want your design to run for several days off of a single battery/charge, your selection will be quite different than if you want to run it for a few minutes at a time. There is no shortage of information on the subject of power management available. It's an important aspect to learn and understand.
Well the fact that your project can run on USB power (did I understand that correctly?) then your total current consumption must be under 500ma otherwise the thermofuse on the board would open up and power down the board.So rechargeable Nimh AA batteries are stated good for 2500+ mah or so, so six or seven AA cells wired in series could power the board via the external power connector, or four AA cells wired in series could power the board via the ground and +5vdc pins. This should give you at least four hours of run time and probably the most cost effective batteries avalible.Lefty
I really appreciate the suggestion, however I feel I should note that this project is simply lining the underside of my longboard with the array of LEDs; a 20-pound battery would be a little much!
retrolefty: A longboard is a long, flat skateboard that's meant more for pure locomotion than tricks and such. I just graduated from UC Santa Barbara and am still living right near it, and the school and surrounding area is flat and close-quarters, very conducive to getting around on a skateboard. Here's a picture of one to get an idea; mine's slightly different in shape without a raised tail, but the same idea: