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Topic: Very Small Arduino (Read 16316 times) previous topic - next topic

cyclegadget


I just did a google search
http://www.google.com/search?q=smt+soldering+techniques&tbo=p&tbm=vid&source=vgc&hl=en&aq=1&oq=smt+soldering


or Sparkfun tutorials http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/category/2
Good links: Eagle tutorial= http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDE1858BD83D19C70
General Arduion tutorials = http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/bbshowpost.php?bbtopic_id=123

putyn

im doing something like this http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/101 its kinda messy and you have to be quick with the soldering iron not to heat the parts too , i have heated so parts pretty hard and they are still working but don't rely  on that some parts may be more sensitive to heat than others , but the end result its ok

here is a low quality shot of my usbasp programmer witch still needs some parts
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh251/putyn_boy/usbasp/IMG_20110805_122416.jpg
and same technique its used for the usb connector too

cyclegadget

#92
Sep 21, 2011, 07:46 pm Last Edit: Sep 22, 2011, 04:47 am by cyclegadget Reason: 1
@CrossRoads

Could you tell me the capacitor locations please? ADDED...Sorry, I meant values at said locations.
Such as:
C1 = 0.1uF
C2 = .22uf
C3 =.22uf     <added values after CrossRoads response
C4 = 0.1uF
C5 = 0.1uF
C9 = 0.1uF
R1=10k
ADDED: Also, I did not purchase a reset switch, any suggestions?




Good links: Eagle tutorial= http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDE1858BD83D19C70
General Arduion tutorials = http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/bbshowpost.php?bbtopic_id=123

putyn

i think .1uF would be ok the location should be indicated by the silkscreen mate :)

cyclegadget


  The silkscreen gives the C1-C9 not the values of the components.

I am building five boards and then five more later so, I don't want to mess up.
Good links: Eagle tutorial= http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDE1858BD83D19C70
General Arduion tutorials = http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/bbshowpost.php?bbtopic_id=123

CrossRoads

cyclegadget,
The caps needed are 0.1uF/100nF at C1, 4, 5, 9. Didn't realize I left that off the schematic.
22 pF and 10K for the other 2 & the pullup.

Any kind of normally open, momentary contact switch will do.

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

cyclegadget


Thanks CrossRoads.  I think I have it sorted out now. I found a switch and ordered more components. I currently only have enough 0.1uF for two boards. I will hopefully have them soldered by tomorrow and tested by the weekend.

Another first for me, I soldered my first size 805 SMTs resistor and 2 caps!!!  8) 8) They were tricky but, I am starting to get it!
Good links: Eagle tutorial= http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDE1858BD83D19C70
General Arduion tutorials = http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/bbshowpost.php?bbtopic_id=123

CrossRoads

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

fm

The arduSTAMP are here! I will be assembling one and trying it this afternoon. Keep you posted...
   

fm

And here it is assembled. Now it is time to try it out...
   

eddiea6987

Dam i envy your smd soldering, i am getting some boards from CrossRoads hopefully out of the 5 i can make one that works but at his price its ok .
I could print the Arduino logo on a box of cereal and sell it as "Arduin-O's"

fm

Hi guys,

the board is up and running nicely. USB is happy, clocks are ticking away.

All lines are good, voltage levels look very nice with little ripple and noise when powered from the USB. IO lines are all good and analog lines are nice and stable.

There is however a BUG on the ISP cut away connector, I have misplaced the MOSI and MISO pins. I have reworked the board that I have assembled, programmed the boot loader and away it goes.

Anyway, since a few of you are waiting for these boards I think it is only fair to let you know.

Since the connector is only necessary to get the boot loader on the AVR, there are several ways to get it in there:

  • Cut away the traces for the MOSI and MISO lines and wire them as in the attached image

  • Remove the ISP header connector and use an external connector to the breakout pins on the board (D11, D12, D13, RST, +5V, GND)



If you are interested in this release, please drop me a message and I will make the arrangements to post them over. I will also be ordering a new batch shortly with this corrected.

Sorry for the inconvenience chaps.
   

cyclegadget


  Congratulations on your new board FM! It looks good!
Good links: Eagle tutorial= http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDE1858BD83D19C70
General Arduion tutorials = http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/bbshowpost.php?bbtopic_id=123

iggykoopa

got my first mini-uino put together. Not as hard as I thought it would be, but I didn't realize how shaky my hands were.... I used the put some solder on all the pads, then tack each one down method. It wasn't too bad. Now I just need to figure out what I want to make with it. Thanks for the design crossroads

CrossRoads

Cool! I am clearing off my desk so I can set up LED lamps I bought at target yesterday and will try one myself.
Then same as  you - what to do with it?  Need some clever little project to put it in.
I have a 35gm syringe of solder, plunger, and 0.019" tips, will see how cleanly I can get paste applied.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

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