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Topic: Car Keypad (Read 10 times) previous topic - next topic

kevin duino

where did you make your own pc board =D


id like to make my own ;D
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neonpolaris

I used http://BatchPCB.com, which is a service of SparkFun.  It's relatively cheap, but it takes a month or so to get your board.

You'll need to learn Eagle (or similar).  There's a tutorial on PCB layout using Eagle on SparkFun's site here:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutorial_info.php?tutorials_id=109

kevin duino

wow >_>

well, i can wait a mont to get started on arduino sheild making lol
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neonpolaris

#28
May 14, 2009, 04:54 am Last Edit: May 14, 2009, 05:44 am by neonpolaris Reason: 1
Would this work for L1?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsg%252by3WlYCkUzVCd1mk%252bcol1TAFnl1vgYE%3d

And for C1, can I use a ceramic here, or only electrolytic?  I'm thinking of longevity and temperature sensitivity, but I'm not terribly sure of when I can use one.  If ceramics are non-polar, can they always replace the others, but not the other way around (like when dealing with AC)?


----
Edit:

Ok, here's the cart I'm looking at, ignore the amounts:
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e91ded73b4

I may not have room for that choke on the board!

designer2k2

yes, that L1 looks good!

for C1 it should be a ultra low ESR electrolytic. Thats becouse they are like the "fastest" and you can get them with big F values.
elextrolytic is fine, as long as you dont take the super cheap ones.
my C1: http://shop.conrad.at/ce/de/product/445903/KONDENSATORULTRA-LOW-ESR220F35V
its rated with 6000h at 105°C, that should be enough...

in your chart you have a 220pF, what should be a 220µF  ;)
and with a 20V zener diode your still safe but it will not be so close to trigger unwanted (14,4V is quite common in a car)

thats how this looks in my prototype:


(my 1N is a little oversized, had no smaller around ::))

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