Ok, after many hours yesterday, the keypad is wired in. It works fully, and I finished ALL the software for it.
But it wasn't easy.
You see, I realized that on my board that I have for the car, I can't connect the arduino to the keypad AND the arduino to the PC. The plug connections interfere with each other. This would not be the case with my latest board (that HAS shipped now, but isn't here yet) I really wanted to see what was going on, to make writing and testing new features better, so I made ANOTHER test keypad. This was made strickly with what I could get from Radioshack (expensive) THAT DAY (I had those headers already).http://www.flickr.com/photos/43268066@N00/3625033355/
I really didn't want to pull the real keypad back out of the door anyway.
With the help of my new keypad, I have finalized my code. I've tried my best to emulate the Ford Keypads as much as possible.Instructions:
To unlock the car, type in the 5-digit 'factory' code.
To lock the car, press the last two buttons together.
After too many unsuccessful attempts to type in a code, the keypad will flash and ignore input for one minute.Program up to three additional 'user' codes (stored in EEPROM):
Type the 'factory' code, then 1, then a new 5-digit code, and finish by pressing one of the first three buttons.
Your new user code is now saved to that position. The car will confirm by locking and unlocking the doors.
You can overwrite the code by saving another to the same position.Erase all user codes:
Type the 'factory' code, then 1, then press 1 again and hold for two seconds. The car will confirm by locking and unlocking the doors.
Time out (reset input keys) after programmable time (default 5 seconds). All key presses must be pressed within
this time from each other to be considered together. The backlight will turn off after timeout.
The finalized code is in the door, fully working. When I get my new board in and fix a problem with my wire mounts in the door I'll post pics of the wiring side.