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Hi Ray,
             Yes indeed I remember you, I too have become a little unhappy with the Picaxe and that basic which seems to change according to which chip your using, it's lack of good maths, etc...

I have read up a bit about using 328P chip on their own, and burning the bootloader, seems the way to go for a stand-alone project.

My biggest problem at the minute is getting to grips with C, just about got the program flow idea, but still along way to go. I'm using my latest buggy as a practice piece, so far it moves, but I need to set up the servo and US SRF005, etc.   I'll be shouting very soon!!

Just going back to the question of sockets/pins.  the extended headers yes with a bit of effort you can remove the lower part, this you can then add to the pins under the board, giving you another 2mm of spacing to the the USB and power sockets...

Regards
Mel.
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Atlanta, USA
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using 328P chip on their own, and burning the bootloader, seems the way to go for a stand-alone project.

Alternative,  I use a "real" Arduino during development because
  • Standard design
  • Easy support
  • Repeatable testing

But after the design and initial debugging, I usually move to a naked-chip without the bootloader.  I use a dedicated UNO as an ArduinoISP programmer, this also serves as a ICSP ... the setting is available from the GUI, the ArduinoISP code is mature, and you get back 2K of flash on the UNO.

Here is one of my projects where I did the above: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=154864.msg1333997#msg1333997
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=154864.msg1333997#msg1333997

IMO, the bootloader is just baggage once the development is completed.  Upgrades can always be done by having access to the ICS pins... either via a DIP-clip or via a connector.

Edit: Check out Nick's pages on the subject: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11637

Ray
« Last Edit: August 14, 2013, 06:52:27 am by mrburnette » Logged

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Just going back to the question of sockets/pins.  the extended headers yes with a bit of effort you can remove the lower part, this you can then add to the pins under the board, giving you another 2mm of spacing to the the USB and power sockets...

That's the trick.  They are not the ones with which most of us are familiar, and which are used on the standard Arduinos or commonly sold for use with them.  They are obviously taller, so if they were used on an Arduino board - one available with the headers separate - you would obviously not have this complaint in the first place.

I usually put a piece of electrical tape on top of the USB socket when I use shields.

Problem solved.

Maybe, maybe not.  To my mind "electrical" PVC tape is too soft, and too easily penetrated by projecting wires particularly if there is movement.  As long as there are no such wires - no components/ through-hole wires or jumpers, it should be OK, but I would prefer a more rigid material such as acrylic or of course - polycarbonate sheet.
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Hi All,
          Well I've been playing with the Arduino Uno (What I really mean is I've been getting to grips with C). Any way taking a look at more Arduinos and various shields! I now see what some of you were saying about them and how my home brewed version, looked wrong, I can see what you mean about the small plastic strip below the board on the pin side! This does as stated give you about another 2mm spacing, just enough to clear the top of the USB port, etc.

I have ordered some proto-typing shields, etc.

The C as come along quite well! I can now just about understand all those funny bits of code (Well most).

Thanks to those who helped. Comments welcome.
Regards

Mel.

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Open your mind, but not too far, your brain might fall out!!

Also like model building, photography and keeping an eye on my 294? Cacti & Succs...

Take a look at http://melsaunders.x10.bz

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