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Topic: Opel TID Display (Read 79935 times) previous topic - next topic


if you mean this sketch, i just tried: keeps saying "no i2c devices found"


if you mean this sketch, i just tried: keeps saying "no i2c devices found"

Yup thats the one.
Hmn not good then.
Thanks for answering yet another daft question.
Sorry for the noobish post but my knowledge is 10 years out of date!


Were working on the Astra G/corsa C/ Vectra C version.

I'm very thankful for the lib creators - top work!
I've made a modification for my Astra F with the 10 character display - some differences/error in the original for this.
Code: [Select]
void TID::cycle(){
tid_data(_SYMBOLS2);// needs three sets of symbols for the 10 digit display
for (int i=0; i<10;i++){ // <<<<<<<needs to cycle up to 10!!!

(plus some other variables i've exttended)
and there was an error in the code, it said 0x9A where 0x9B is needed
Code: [Select]
tid_byte(0x9B); //the address for the 8 char display is embedded here, for the 10 char you have to use 0x9A <<wrong

Next up, SD interface for in-car MP3 player!

Daniel Crane


and there was an error in the code, it said 0x9A where 0x9B is needed

really? i read everywhere that the 10 char version needed 0x9A... oh well.

Great job fixing the library for this version of the display, i was interested in doing so myself, but i have only an 8 char version so it would had beed hard to check if everything was properly working. Thanks for your contribution, have fun with your project!  :)


Hi there,

I bought myself an Arduino Nano for displaying the current speed in my Corsa C with 10 letters display.
At first I simply extended the .ino file from the first page. But nothing happend. Then I tried the lib from dandymon by running the example. But still nothing is happening. Im using this code:

Code: [Select]
#include <TID.h>
//Created by Daniel Crane
TID mydisplay(3,4,5);//SDA, SCL, MRQ

void setup()

void loop()
    mydisplay.display_message("SCROLLING MONKEY5!",500);

I've connected SDA to D3, SCL to D4 and MRQ to D5. But even the LED L on the board doesnt light. When uploading the basic blinking sketch from Arduino examples, the LED starts to blink right after uploading.

I've experienced another problem. When connecting a 12V= powersource to VIN, the LEDs RX and TX start to light, but even the blinking sketch doesn't start to blink LED L. Only if I connect 5V= via USB from a power supply for mobile phones, L starts to blink.

Im using Arduino 3.0 and Im new to Arduino, but Im very experienced writing C-code. Im not too familiar with C++.


Apr 26, 2013, 09:19 pm Last Edit: Apr 26, 2013, 09:21 pm by Giovanni83 Reason: 1
the line
Code: [Select]

mydisplay.display_message("SCROLLING MONKEY5!",500);

contains an error: the speed value must be between 1 and 255 (it's specified in the tid.h file). My guess is that a value of 500 causes your project to hang.  Try lowering this value and see if at lest the led blinks.

hope this helps


Thanks for the response. I've corrected the line, but still nothing happend.

Meanwhile I have loaded the Blink Sketch and evaluated the power supply. 12V= to VIN causes RX TX to light, L doesnt blink. When I increase the current to 15V=, L starts to blink. I don't understand this behaviour, since VIN is specified to 6-12V.
I am not sure, how to power the Arduino in the car. When the battery is not charged I have 14,5V and 13,8V when charged. How can I get 15V in the car? Or other suggestions? Or is my Arduino kind of buggy?

BTW: the TID in my Corsa is the same like in the Astra G, dandymon has shown a picture of it.


Apr 26, 2013, 10:03 pm Last Edit: Apr 27, 2013, 01:58 am by Giovanni83 Reason: 1
BTW: the TID in my Corsa is the same like in the Astra G, dandymon has shown a picture of it.

yup, i made a bit of confusion between the various display models, so i edited my post

on the power supply matter, to get 12 v as you said in your firts post, what kind of power supply you used?


I am using an adjustable power supply that provides 0-16V= at 500mA. I have placed a measuring device inbetween while powering my Arduino for viewing the current under load. When the current exceeds 15V, the Blink Sketch starts to blink the LED.


Apr 26, 2013, 10:34 pm Last Edit: Apr 26, 2013, 10:36 pm by Giovanni83 Reason: 1
by your description (and please don't take offense) i'm  guessing electronics is not your strong suit  :)

when the power supply is set to 12V and the measuring device (looks like this?) is removed and disconnected, the simple blink sketch works properly?


I don't feel offended. I am indeed familiar with electronics, what I dont know for sure are the english terms since I am not a native speaker. If you want a circuit diagram, I can provide one.

Yes I am using a so called Multimeter. But I have to disappoint you, it doesn't matter if with or without, the Blink Sketch starts only with 15V=. Or if I am connecting the USB cable to the 5V recharger of my mobile phone. Setting the power supply to 5V= and connecting it to the special "5V" pin for stabilized input, the sketch isn't starting either.


what I dont know for sure are the english terms since I am not a native speaker

neither am i, but wathever the language, current is in amperes, not volts, so i thought you were putting an high resistance between the power supply and the supply input of your nano by emploing the DMM in the wrong manner

if you have another suitable dc power supply, please try it. Maybe is just the one that you are using that is faulty (maybe the capacitor inside of it is gone bad, the voltage output is just a rectified sine, and the multimeters still reads 15V because does internal averaging, or something like that), the fact that with the usb power  supply everything works fine makes me think that.

If you don't have another power supply, for now please keep running your test with the phone charger or the arduino plugged to your computer, so you can focus on the code and exclude that the sketch isn't working because of supply issues.


You are right, I confused the word current with voltage, I am sorry. Please replace every "current" in my posting with "voltage".

if you have another suitable dc power supply
I have ordered a new power supply with fixed steps of the output voltage. And also a breadboard for more serious experimenting :D

Now away from the supply: the TID expects 12V on a pin called DIS for switching from calendar date to "incoming" String. It is the red/gray wire (same for 8 and 10 letters display). Right now I have connected this pin directly to VCC. In my car I would connect it to ... I dont know how that wire is called - not the positive pole from the battery but the one from the dynamo. Or should this be managed from the Arduino, too?


Or should this be managed from the Arduino, too?

well, this is up to you: you can keep the date/time function if you control that line with arduino, or forget about it and connect the line to permanent +12V (i'm pretty sure you can't choose between alternator or battery, it's automatic)


I've done some scanning of my Haynes manual because I thought this might help a few people.

You don't have to access the TID from the wiring loom as you can get to it from the ISO connector behind the radio.

[gorgeous] I too have a nano and power it from the usb connector which plugs into a USB cigarette charger adapter. When i've made a final product, i'll buy a cheap usb charger and wire it into the loom behind the console, and attach a (very short) USB to mini-USB adapter.

I didn't mention in the PDF that the arrow J> is the Red/White connector ('gorgeous' put red/grey) that tells the display to display the date or the text string. This wire is just the antenna-power wire given out by the radio that is meant for electric aerials, which tells them to rise or drop when the radio is switched on/off.

My radio for example, turns this off when I listen to CD or AUX, leaving the display to return back to the date, and tells the TID to expect a string when it's powered on (because it would be receiving an RDS station name).

###Potential BUG with the arduino###
My nano is a bit of a pain if the power isn't steady. If it loses power or has a power ripple, you need to turn the arduino off for a couple of seconds before turning back on. There appear to be some capacitors holding charge that don't quite let the arduino power down and boot up properly, unless it loses power for a good 2 seconds. This might be why the blink program isn't even working sometimes, the bootloader doesn't load properly, causing all sorts of blkinking lights, but not the correct program to run.


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