Go Down

Topic: Looking for the right Optocoupler (Read 3 times) previous topic - next topic


Would it make sense to rewire/relamp the whole box and stick an MP3 player and powered speakers in?

I find it harder to express logic in English than in Code.
Sometimes an example says more than many times as many words.


I thought about it as well, but not for me, no. The whole box is in such a good condition, it'd be a shame to gut the whole mechanism.. it really is a masterpiece of engineering work and a great reminiscence of a long gone time. Really, there wasn't a single wire I had to replace, not a single switch, practically no rust, little dirt, etc.

It'd just be too bad to lose all that mechanical mastery!

@terryking228: That IC assortment is awesome! And yea, you're right.. by the time the weekend has finally come and I find myself being able to figure out how I'll go about actually building a project, I always have to wait some time before I can then actually start building.. It sucks to not be able to put your toughts into practice right away :D



If you don't want the line frequency to come through you can rectify the AC and filter it and then with a current limit feed that to about any optocouple for a simple on/off.

There's an application note which may help.

If it was designed by man it can be repaired by man.


Hey guys!
Thank you all again for the great advice! I've now ordered several opto-couplers, since unfortunately I was unable find any of the ones you specified in german online-shops...

Here's the one's I got:


Would any of them actually be suited for the job? I've read through their datasheets, and from what I understood they *usually* (doesn't apply to all of them) take around 1.45V of forward voltage on the LED, around 25mA. So I should base my resistor calculations on the LED-side on those values, right?

I seem to have some problems "decoding" the Collector's ratings though.. Essentially I've read through the definitions of all of the values, but unfortunately, that doesn't make me any smarter.. It'd be awesome if you could tell me what values *exactly* I have to look for.

To remind you: LED side input is 24VDC (after rectifying it) at 2A max., Arduino-side transistor output is the regular 5V.



I found this thread googleing. I am working on a similar project, A Seeburg 3W100 very simular to yours, the same 24VAC pulse that needs to be read by my arduino. 

Have you had any success or progress on this? Any information you wish to share? 

Go Up