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Author Topic: Building an Arduino on breadboard - Digikey parts  (Read 3331 times)
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Hey guys.

I want to try to build a standalone Arduino on a breadboard. (ie, no external hardware needed to load code)

Is this guide still applicable?
http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Tutorials/ArduinoBreadboard
Based on it, i've assembled this parts list from Digikey. Let me know if there's any parts I can change to save some money/improve my end result.


1x  1050-1019-ND   MCU 32K W/ARDUINO UNO BOOTLOADER
1x  LM7805CT-ND   IC REG 1A POS 5V TO-220
2x  P828-ND   CAP ALUM 10UF 50V 20% RADIAL
1x  X433-ND   CRYSTAL 16.000 MHZ SER 49US
2x  BC1005CT-ND   CAP CER 22PF 50V 5% RADIAL
1x  768-1028-ND   CABLE USB EMBD UART 5V .1"HDR
1x  SAM1031-50-ND   CONN HEADER 50POS .100" SGL GOLD (I could get shorter headers, but this way i'll have extra)
1x  450-1645-ND   SWITCH TACTILE SPST-NO 0.05A 12V
2x  67-2064-ND   LED 5MM 2200MCD PURPLE WTR CLEAR (I want to get purple LEDs for fun, i've got regular colored ones already)

Thanks!
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 03:00:15 am by Panici » Logged

Electrical Engineering Student

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Have you looked at - http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno - too?

Schematic & Reference Design
EAGLE files: - http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/arduino_Uno_Rev3-02-TH.zip -
Schematic: - http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino_Uno_Rev3-schematic.pdf -
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Here is a barebones one I made form that tutorial (was a while back)

I basically just took the the same thing from the breadboard.. (which I have made a couple laying around on the small breadboards from radioshack for quick dev).. and etched a home made/home brew PCB..  and used the same components.






(I then found a nice kit on line for $10.00..but doesnt have a vRegultor on it.. I put one on mine)
compared to the home brew on I made.. to the kit on-line:









Also.. you dont need a USB to Serial stuff..

just a quick (minimum of) 4 pin header.. for the FTDI uploading of sketches.

I use a $1.00 cell phone data cable I hacked..  it has the correct chip in it.. but I could NOT find a rest or dtr pin..

so I have to use the reset button on the board each time (not a problem for me)..

(I made a post here on it a while back)

« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 06:07:30 pm by xl97 » Logged


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Also.. you dont need a USB to Serial stuff..

just a quick (minimum of) 4 pin header.. for the FTDI uploading of sketches.

I use a $1.00 cell phone data cable I hacked..  it has the correct chip in it.. but I could NOT find a rest or dtr pin..


Doesn't the ATmega use a serial interface though? What would be the point of the USB-Serial breakout boards that Sparkfun sells then?

That cellphone cable must be USB to serial no?
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sorry...

that probably does read a bit odd.

I mean you dont need that breakout board in the tut.   You can use a cheap $1.00 data cable on these and make 'em work.

Im sure those USB to serial BOB's have proper 'everything'.. and even auto reset..etc..

Im saying the way Im talking about is 'proper'.. but it works.   smiley  (if you dont mind the manual reset button pushing)

Yes the cell phone cable I believe has a 'pro-logic' chip in it.
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None of these seem to have decoupling (bypass) capacitors on the processor power leads.

Don
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 10:02:00 pm by floresta » Logged

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arent those the caps in the corner on the DIY board I made? if not..then I dont know what you mean.

as the 'kit' I believe has them 'under' the chip.. seated in the center of the socket.  (nice little space saver)

kit pic:  [5 total components under the chip, in the socket/center]

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You didn't post that picture before! 

I assumed that the capacitors in the corner of your board are the ~22pF ones for the crystal.  The kit uses resonator which has internal capacitors (hence the need for a third terminal).

Putting the decoupling capacitors under the chip is not only a space saver but it is probably the best location possible since you want those devices as close to the component pins as possible. 

That looks like a very nice kit and your homemade one isn't too shabby either.  Did you include a ground pin between the crystal pins in case you want to substitute a resonator? 


Don
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hi-

yeah I didnt post that one before... I can take a pic of it all put together.. with chip out too.

it 'is' a nice little kit IMHO..  (just needs a vRegulator of some kind)..

I attempted to add one to mine..works fine...  I havent messed with it in a bit.. kinda made it for a buddy who needed to blink some leds but space was odd (a StarWars training remote  prop/mod) shaped.

on my 'attempted' DIY Arduino clonne/pcb..(whatever).. I did 'not' include a ground pin for the option of crystal or resonator

I was looking at tuts on line and 'faking' my way through etching a board.. and designing a PCB..lol..

Using a resonator you still run @ 16mhz?

Thanks
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Quote
Using a resonator you still run @ 16mhz?
Yes, if you use a 16Mhz ceramic resonator. Like crystal resonators, ceramic resonators are built for a specific frequency.


http://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=resonator&what=products

Lefty
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