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[Reply #15 on:]

Barry you are right i have made a mistake i have them switch around, the line that goes to the GND should to to arduino and the line with the resistor should go to GND
To avoid massive flash fire you can change the reset delay on the kit, the assemble instructions will tell you how.

Manfred i bought the valve from here : http://www.esska.de/cgi-bin/esska_de/iboshop.cgi?showd13420!0,727730488276282,M2X000000000

part no. M21812Vgl000

MetRo_ you can start by going to :

http://www.martin-waugh.com/
http://www.hiviz.com

here is a picture of the current setup



You can see it in a larger on my photo stream on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34463171@N04/3924704684/

Jens Erik Mikkelsen

[Reply #16 on:]

Here's my photo's on flickr without arduino
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pace1958/

There are few ways to photograph them here's one google water drops

http://www.photosbykev.com/wordpress/photography/tips-and-trick/water-droplet-photography/

[Reply #17 on:]

I'm building something similair. what do you mean by a photogate? an led + phototransistor pair? will water passing through it trigger it? (never tried it before..

[Reply #18 on:]

Hi Jens

Thank you for the photo and the valve info.
The only valves which i have found are this: http://www.sensortechnics.com/index.php?fid=300&fpar=YToxOntzOjQ6InBjaWQiO3M6MzoiMTgwIjt9&isSSL=0&aps=0&blub=559ba07bd8b439f53f5a00c89bd542f6&new_language_id=2
I sent mail with an inquiry over prices and availability, but i have no answer received at this time.

Currently i use a analog control (with 555 timer IC) with an IR gate and 3 Vivitar 283 flashes. I start the drops manually with pipette.
Images made with this setting: http://bilder.fuchsrudel.de/index.php?cat=16

But now it's time for the arduino  ;D

[Reply #19 on:]

Hi Jens

I have another question: how many ampere the valve need? I doesn't found such information on the esska website.

[Reply #20 on:]

Hey again

Sorry dont know the specs for it ,I use 12v Dc 500mA for it, it seems to work well

Jens Erik

[Reply #21 on:]

Thank You
That's enough info.

[Reply #22 on:]

Greetings!

I have a problem getting the flash to to work.
We used this optoisolator
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FO/FOD852.pdf
and this schematics

The code is as follws:

Code:

digitalWrite(flashPin,HIGH);
delay(100);
digitalWrite(flashPin,LOW);

It just wont work. and there is no reason why it shouldnt. :'(
I managed to build a whole remote with display, but im stuck on the flash. :o
Can someone please explain to me what im doing wrong?
Thanks in advance!

[Reply #23 on:]

It just wont work.

Do you have a "pinMode (flashPin, OUTPUT);" somewhere?

What happens when you connect a LED to "flashPin"?

[Reply #24 on:]

Do you have a "pinMode (flashPin, OUTPUT);" somewhere?

What happens when you connect a LED to "flashPin"?

the pinmode is set in the setup rutine.
it works with a led. so my guess is that the optokoppler cant handle the 150V from the flash.

When i messure the flashs voltage it loads up to 150V over  7 seconds.
The funny thing is when the optoisolator switches the voltage drops to 0V and then back to 150V without unloading the flashs voltage. :o

Any ideas now?
 

[Reply #25 on:]

I tried this myself and got all the triggering parts up and running but had a hard time controlling the water drops. Have you tried to more precise control the water with the arduino? I think it would be very cool if it was possible to have an LCD and setting for example "two drops with 85 milisec delay between" and then just get two drops with that delay... That would make collision phtotos much easier.

[Reply #26 on:]

Hi Jens,
I would to know witch kind of photogate you've used in your project.
Could you give us more details about the circuit such as a photo of it.

Thx. ;D

[Reply #27 on:]

The funny thing is when the optoisolator switches the voltage drops to 0V and then back to 150V without unloading the flashs voltage

Usually the trigger is a moderately high-voltage capacitor that is discharged rapidly through a high-ratio step-up transformer.
I guess if the discharge is too slow, because of a too-high ON resistance in the opto-isolator, you won't create a high enough voltage trigger pulse to the tube.

I've used MOC3020s (opto-triac) almost exclusively (except when I've used a physical switch) on triggers between a few volts and up to a hundred or so, without problems.
The MOC3020 is rated up to 400V.

[Reply #28 on:]

Hi,
can I change the LTV816 with a 4N27 optocoupler? How I can connect my camera and flash? I don't understand throw this diagram.
Please help me.
 :-[

[Reply #29 on:]

Any joy with an LCD display yet?
Please see next post