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[Reply #30 on:]

Like this?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ABRACON/ABL-16000MHZ-B2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsBj6bBr9Q9aUe%252bp9Tek3UMf7HCqm%252bSvX0%3d

Just need to know how to search

The pictures are not legible. Maybe photobucket is hosing them. Use the Select button (looks like magnifying glass over a piece of paper) to get the image as big on the screen as you can before exporting it.

I didn't know what the PPM's needed to be or anything

I can read the ones I did from print-to-PDF, not sure why you can't?

Let me to a screen rotation and I'll grab some hi-res ones.

[Reply #31 on:]

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/master_3.png

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/slave_3.png

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/selector_3.png

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/indicator_3.png

This is my monitor setup. pair of 19" 5:4's on the end, 16:9 22" in the center. Right now I'm pulling 3.73Gb of RAM and 3.65 of virtual memory

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/390721_10150677099244606_771454605_12015705_1194907883_n.jpg

on the selectors, I have it set up so the switches can go in 2 different directions. Since they're square, that means one pin gets shared. So I'll have solder jumper pads to select what that pin is, one or eight. And yes I know I misspelled 'binary'.

[Reply #32 on:]

I'm not sure what part number for the oscillator..mouser only has one xtal and they want $15 for it.

Unless you want better than 0.5% clock accuracy, you can use one of these http://uk.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Frequency-Control-Timing-Devices/Resonators/_/N-6zu9h?P=1z0wnukZ1z0z5h6&Keyword=ceramic+resonator&FS=Tru. If you use one of the 3-terminals ones, you can omit the 22pf capacitors.

If you want a crystal, Mouser seems to have those too: http://uk.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Frequency-Control-Timing-Devices/Crystals/_/N-6zu9f?P=1z0wnukZ1z0z7l5.

[Reply #33 on:]

I'm not sure what part number for the oscillator..mouser only has one xtal and they want $15 for it.

Unless you want better than 0.5% clock accuracy, you can use one of these http://uk.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Frequency-Control-Timing-Devices/Resonators/_/N-6zu9h?P=1z0wnukZ1z0z5h6&Keyword=ceramic+resonator&FS=Tru. If you use one of the 3-terminals ones, you can omit the 22pf capacitors.

If you want a crystal, Mouser seems to have those too: http://uk.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Frequency-Control-Timing-Devices/Crystals/_/N-6zu9f?P=1z0wnukZ1z0z7l5.

I'm using a time function, but it's relative, not absolute. So the millis() doesn't have to be absolutely perfect as long as it'll still run on the bootloader.

What's the difference between crystal and resonator?

[Reply #34 on:]

What's the difference between crystal and resonator?

Ceramic resonators generally have a quoted frequency accuracy of 0.5% over their temperature range. Crystals are more typically 0.05% or 0.03%. Anything up to 2% is OK for serial comms, including bootloading. The Arduino Uno uses a resonator.

[Reply #35 on:]

What's the difference between crystal and resonator?

Ceramic resonators generally have a quoted frequency accuracy of 0.5% over their temperature range. Crystals are more typically 0.05% or 0.03%. Anything up to 2% is OK for serial comms, including bootloading. The Arduino Uno uses a resonator.

Thanks. I've sent KirAsh4 about 5 emails tonight as I try to learn eagle, so I'm going to let her catch up. She builds her own arduinos like CrossRoads does, so i don't know if she uses resonators or crystals.

[Reply #36 on:]

Made my first layout all on my own.

I measured out the board and LED spacing myself so I know it's all good LED's are on .1 lead spacing with 6.5mm vertical separation at a 10 degree angle. Board is 1.19" x 3.38" and matches the main digit board. Solder pads are on 0.1" spacing, only concern is if they're too close and wether or not they're through-hole?

Honestly I feel accomplished...it looks something close to right! Not bad for ~4 hours of work!

spec'd with this resistor. 5x 3.3V LED's running off 18 volts @ 15mA. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/TNPW0603100RDEEA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdGkrng054txRufvdcoZTXnzdCIj30MTQ%3d

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/dial_board_dig1-1.jpg

Reason for doing the leading 1 separate from the other 3 digits is because it's cheaper than buying an entire full digit. 3 single digits are $8.95, and the 1 will cost $3 to make and save me 2 inches of length, vs a 10 inch long 4 digit for $33. Also saves me a $5.67 selector BCD switch, a shift register, and a slave board's worth of SMD soldering. I'd make the whole panel, but the cost would skyrocket out of control far too quickly.

[Reply #37 on:]

So thats 2 sets of 5 LEDs in series with a resistor? Both turn on at the same time?

[Reply #38 on:]

So thats 2 sets of 5 LEDs in series with a resistor? Both turn on at the same time?

Yes. Idential to the rest of the boards segment-wiring wise, I just joined both segments to common power. Sole purpose is to display a 1, and only a 1.

The single digit boards are 2.5" wide. So I'll have 8.2" total and 3.375" tall. I got the one down to 0.97 of an inch wide.

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/dial_board_dig1-1.jpg

[Reply #39 on:]

So to bring the parts list up to page,



Arduino packaging (for the 4 main boards):

10K resistor pull-up for reset: Vishay TNPW060310K0DEEA: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/TNPW060310K0DEEA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdGkrng054t2aw0xAnHr8cyglfeXQbQ5Q%3d
Atmel 328P-AU: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATMEGA328P-AU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXO3RbBx7FKCmV
Oscillator: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ABRACON/ABL-16000MHZ-B2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsBj6bBr9Q9aUe%252bp9Tek3UMf7HCqm%252bSvX0%3d
Capacitors for oscillator: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Vitramon/VJ0402A180GXXCW1BC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvQvaS66kI3To5vmFxkrtf%2fj9ftZUdMLTU%3d
3 pin IDC connector for connecting to indicator board: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/CHG-1003-001010-KEP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM18SX895SbBDG7PcRT8JksiU%3d

--------------

Selector Board:

Switch: NKK Binary Coded Decimal http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=FR01AR10PB-W-Svirtualkey63300000virtualkey633-FR01AR10PB-W-S
Knob for Switch: NKK AT433A: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AT433Avirtualkey63300000virtualkey633-AT433
RJ45 port, right angle: FCI 54602-908LF: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/54602-908LF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvQhAhQbXdbBseXx%252btLS%252bLV8lpIitz%2fSwI%3d
RJ45 port, vertical: Molex 95503-2881: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/95503-2881/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvQhAhQbXdbBpAwtzh57ZJU%252b12Gp50sFk4%3d
3 pin IDC connector for connecting to selector board: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/CHG-1003-001010-KEP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM18SX895SbBDG7PcRT8JksiU%3d
3 conductor cable for connecting to indicator board: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/1173C-SL005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuPnr6I6Psi5cXCNOyBX32jeaPsJSM2Yeg%3d

-------------

Indicator Board:

Indicator Display: Lite-On LTC-4727JR: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lite-On/LTC-4727JR/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvkC18yXH9iIgvlR62MGniBcMrTIHXqM2o%3d
330 ohm SMD resistor for indicator: Vishay/Dale CRCW0603330RJNTA: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/CRCW0603330RJNTA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBILxXaVI2KEnFAwsUpwT18g4%3d
3 pin IDC connector for connecting to selector board: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/CHG-1003-001010-KEP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM18SX895SbBDG7PcRT8JksiU%3d
3 conductor cable for connecting selector board: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/1173C-SL005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuPnr6I6Psi5cXCNOyBX32jeaPsJSM2Yeg%3d

--------------

Master Display Board:

Bit Shifter: TI TPIC6B595: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TPIC6B595DWRG4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsbn1GaJysl5n9mZ%252buky8fvzWTfbYIY%252bQ%3d
5 volt regulator: STMicro LD29150DT50R: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/LD29150DT50R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsGz1a6aV8DcF1%2fpLH4TRMJcGtMnQnSZII%3d
RJ45 port, right angle: FCI 54602-908LF: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FCI/54602-908LF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvQhAhQbXdbBseXx%252btLS%252bLV8lpIitz%2fSwI%3d
+12 (+18) volt power-in terminal block: Molex 38720-7202: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=38720-7202virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-38720-7202
3 pin IDC connector for connecting master/slave boards: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/CHG-1003-001010-KEP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM18SX895SbBDG7PcRT8JksiU%3d
3 conductor cable for connecting master/slave boards: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/1173C-SL005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuPnr6I6Psi5cXCNOyBX32jeaPsJSM2Yeg%3d

(3 conductor is to keep +12/+5/gnd away from mosi/ss/sclk)

--------------

Slave Board:

Bit Shifter: TI TPIC6B595: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TPIC6B595DWRG4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsbn1GaJysl5n9mZ%252buky8fvzWTfbYIY%252bQ%3d
3 pin IDC connector for connecting master/slave boards: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/CHG-1003-001010-KEP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM18SX895SbBDG7PcRT8JksiU%3d
3 conductor cable for connecting master/slave boards: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/1173C-SL005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuPnr6I6Psi5cXCNOyBX32jeaPsJSM2Yeg%3d

(3 conductor is to keep +12/+5/gnd away from mosi/ss/sclk)

------------

"One" Board-

10x LED's http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/VAOL-5GAE4/?qs=io7aH2hdVh64NnNrLmZ6Dw%3d%3d
for 3.3V LED's, 100 ohm resistor (18V w/ step-up), 0603 pkg http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TNPW0603100RDEEAvirtualkey61300000virtualkey71-TNPW0603100RDEEA
for 2V LED's, 220 ohm resistor (12 volt supply/no step-up) http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/TNPW0603221RBEEA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhGxJRuluY1gSVpCEZEZkSFzg%3d
Slave Display Board:

[Reply #40 on:]

So it's been determined that since I'll be using serial.available and not using any critical time related functions, I can forego the crystal completely and rely on the internal 1MHz clock.

[Reply #41 on:]

So it's been determined that since I'll be using serial.available and not using any critical time related functions, I can forego the crystal completely and rely on the internal 1MHz clock.

Not unless you calibrate the internal clock, otherwise it is likely that your serial comms won't work. Unless you have a frequency meter, it's easier to use a crystal or resonator than calibrate the internal clock. Whether or not you use serial.available has nothing to do with it.

[Reply #42 on:]

So it's been determined that since I'll be using serial.available and not using any critical time related functions, I can forego the crystal completely and rely on the internal 1MHz clock.

Not unless you calibrate the internal clock, otherwise it is likely that your serial comms won't work. Unless you have a frequency meter, it's easier to use a crystal or resonator than calibrate the internal clock. Whether or not you use serial.available has nothing to do with it.

KirAsh4 said he doesn't use an external clock if he doesn't have to. didn't specify on setting the internal clock, though.

[Reply #43 on:]

here's where I'm at right now. Disclaimer: as a beginner, i don't want to run traces between solder pads. Yes it dirties things up, but I'd rather than than melting a trace.

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/dial_board_slave-1.jpg

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/magnethead494/dial_board_dig1-2.jpg

Still have to do indicator, master, and selector.

[Reply #44 on:]

Are you putting down discrete pads vs chip symbols? Makes it hard to follow what you are doing.

Pic's are coming thru nice.