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Topic: Your latest purchase (Read 295224 times) previous topic - next topic


Ah well. Each to their own.

The beauty of getting the right type of programmer is that it is not yet another thing in a box - you only need the one. Put a programming header onto your boards and you don't have to build any adapters. Plug it in, hit enter, done. Target type doesn't matter a thing.

And yes, you can drill a hole into a concrete wall using a spoon.


And yes, you can drill a hole into a concrete wall using a spoon.

Or I could just use the drill I already have hehe

ok Im done



Personally I don't ever use an Arduino board as a programmer. And certainly I can't and don't recommend that to anybody else - except maybe in case of emergency or for the purpose of learning. Excellent dedicated programmers are widely available for little money, certainly for less than getting another Arduino board. These are things you can rely upon.

Oops. I just did exactly that:


The inspiration for this project was that I had just spent about 4 days helping someone because their "dedicated programmer" didn't work for the Mega2560. Finally I think he had to order a second dedicated programmer (the Atmel one) for around $60 + postage.

Meanwhile, what I describe in that post programs a Mega in 3 seconds, with a simple cable you can make up and use for any board that has the standard ICSP header on it.

There are quirks depending on the kind of Arduino hardware you have, the type of bootloader that is on there, the version of the IDE you use (serial buffer size!)

My programmer doesn't use the serial buffer, except to output confirmation messages to the user.  The thing is, it's self-contained. It doesn't rely on the right version of avrdude, connected to the IDE, connected to a USB port, with the right entries in boards.txt, and the right configuration for avrdude, and so on. It's basically hardware talking to hardware, using the interface documented in the datasheet.

If you were selling Unos (or clones) you could program one as fast as you can plug the cable in (one second programming time). You might modify it slightly to have a "program" button and a red/green light to show when it is done, or if it failed.
Please post technical questions on the forum, not by personal message. Thanks!

More info: http://www.gammon.com.au/electronics


@Nick: you are forgiven. Not that it means anything coming from me ;-)


These are things you can rely upon.

So you like to think.  They're still not considered "production caliber" programmers by the pros (for one thing, they want to be able to "verify" at the extremes of the documented supply voltages.)  And people have reported assorted problems with AVRISP "clones", and even the "real" Atmel version (like the different firmware versions, depending on OS and programmer SW.)

Yeah, by the time you spend 3 to 6x the cost of an Arduino, you probably have something you can count on.  Lower-cost solutions, I'm not so sure about.

(A nice thing about ArduinoISP is that if it doesn't work, you can theoretically fix it.  Less so with a professional programmer.  On the third hand, a lot of the "issues" raised here are really due to people trying to use a programmer without really having the background they ought to.  Of course, I never got my (real, Atmel) STK500 to successfully program by tiny11s, either.  What awful instructions and what a kludge of jumpering!)


May 07, 2012, 02:55 am Last Edit: May 07, 2012, 03:10 am by madworm Reason: 1
I think most of the problems automagically go away once you have a working programmer sitting in a box. Probably due to the fact that this usually comes with a more experienced user.

And maybe I should I will avoid reading posts like "upload doesn't work" and the likes for a while.


A tiny PIR sensor board - including a fingerprint of an unknown laborer. Depending upon the position of the 0-Ohm resistor the output is either re-triggerable (H) (always HIGH if motion is detected) or not (L). The default setting is the (L) position. Range is a couple of meters. It requires at least 5V to work properly and the output is either 0V or 3.3V (both driven).


Tried to get some 7-segment LED displays and ended up with these:

Will wait for the right parts to come in.
Serial LCD keypad panel,phi_prompt user interface library,SDI-12 USB Adapter


BAV99 dual diode next to a 20c coin:

The trick is not to drop it on the floor, because then you never see it again. :O

Atmega1284P ... now to do some serious processing:

Please post technical questions on the forum, not by personal message. Thanks!

More info: http://www.gammon.com.au/electronics


Got my USBASP. Also got maybe the flu. Whaaaa!

Nick Gammon on multitasking Arduinos:
1) http://gammon.com.au/blink
2) http://gammon.com.au/serial
3) http://gammon.com.au/interrupts


Diablo 3 Collectors Edition. :)

This is relevant because that thing sticking out the front is a USB stick. ;)
Please post technical questions on the forum, not by personal message. Thanks!

More info: http://www.gammon.com.au/electronics


What exactly are we looking at?


What exactly are we looking at?

The horns of a defeated evil demon, with an embedded flash drive.
Or something like that.


May 15, 2012, 05:34 pm Last Edit: May 15, 2012, 08:32 pm by focalist Reason: 1

A GSI Lumonics Chart Recorder.  Near as I can tell, it's a serial thermal printer.  I'm not sure of the exact use yet, but I got it for $1.04 including shipping...lol... I am such a bottom feeder...

10W warm white LED with 110v AC driver... $4.75 shipped

Extra Bright UV LED 3W, 150 Degrees, 400nm, 400mW, 4V x 0.7A.
Manufacturer- Edison Opto(Taiwan).... $1.99 shipped

The UV LED is the center of a UV LED flood/wash light I am making.  There's an abandoned railway tunnel not far from me, about a quarter mile long and abandoned for about a hundred years now.  Mostly safe, though several minor collapses along the rough-cut rock faces give me the willies at times. Dead isn't even the word for what would you would be if the tunnel collapsed.  Only half the run is reinforced and concrete-lined, the shot above is from the point where the concrete ends, about halfway through.  The thing is, there's calcite and other minerals leaching through the rock now, and last time I was there discovered some areas and deposits mildly fluoresced when hit with blue light from an LED flashlight.  I'm building the UV with a mix ranging from 400nm to 380nm, whatever I got cheapest as I bought, so the light should cover that band fairly well.  Should have a total of about 14 watts of fairly directional UV, this 3 watter is the widest by far.  Should make for some interesting photo lighting... never ever do I stop tinkering.  

Been hosed for a few days, so i couldn't get downstairs to mess with the LED photoflash and trigger.. stairs and blown out lumbar disk don't mix.  Seems better today, so I might be able to drag my carcass around a bit and get some tinkering in... Gonna need to get the spine working better to actually take the UV up to the railway tunnel.. but I'm nothing if not patient..


Re: obscure curled object

Glued to a long stick this would make a good back scratcher. Attach id to a piece of rope and you get a grapple or some sort.

Are there any BFGs in that game?

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