Correct this chip is around on eBay for lower prices than on the Maxim website.
I browsed the datasheet. These are primarily 7seg decoders/drivers, also it's possible
to use without decoding. Brightness can not be controlled for individual LEDs.
Actually I can not completely get rid off the ghosting using digital MOSFETs/serial shifters.
Reasons could be crosstalk via the LEDs internal capacitance (I use max. refresh currently might be 1 Khz or so), and the digital MOSFETs eventually don't completely turn off, or don't turn off fast enough.
It's really barely noticeable, not disturbing, and these are high efficiency LEDs which will light from some 10s uA.
Using the Maxim ICs, there should be no ghosting at all. And you should get a guarantee for good welcome, if it is used for a shop sign. This is an art on it's own, and if it works out, good.
$40 is possible using bulk parts (but these aren't RGB LEDs).
Adding the labour costs it would be about $1000 or more.
To the OP really at first only populate 1/4 or so on the PCB, and see how it works out.
You can see if your power supply is appreciate already maybe.
There are factories actually which manufacture large scale LED displays (full color), really some square metres, and they would know much more about them. I am not sure if they are ready to talk to someone who only wants to build one single circuit for personal use. There are some videos on youtube.
Most 8bit MCUs are not powerful enough at all to handle such a large matrix.
It's possible maybe to do a simple scroller, but not reasonable framerate for graphics.
You need more powerful MCU, 32bits, for memory reasons, and performance.
8K RAM could be enough for some animation/graphics.
Other than the fact that it will get expensive, I still want to know if I can obtain "higher" framerate for smoother animation if I do it this way.
This rather would be done using a more powerful controller, instead of direct drive, because of the high power consumption. Your memory image is 768 bytes, if you use 8bit/color. I don't know if 8bit PWM is possible for the Arduino you use. Maybe you'd have to use 4bits only.What I really suggest is to use seperate controllers (as many as needed) for the display refresh/color control/brightness control. Then you only really send the updated memory image to these controllers.
(after reading the thread again)Actually I saw the information on a professional website (don't have the URL):
There are multiplexed displays, which are used indoors (mainly),
and there are also non-multiplexed displays, for high brightness requirements (outdoors).
So if you don't need highest possible brightness, using 96 chips is kind of a "waste".
It's no harm or technically wrong, but more labour, more cost, and more PCB space.
LEDs these days still have high brightness (indoors) using upto 8x multiplexing.
It could even be, in the end you get more brightness than you want, for indoors.
I participate here with replies, because my latest matrix technically is very similar, 768 individual LEDs are not much different than 256 RGB LEDs. The controllers I use are for refresh/brightness control only, not to build up the matrix graphics. The smallest unit I use are 6 LEDs sharing cathodes, and this equals 2x RGB LEDs.
Many of my earlier designs in the end were using too much components, and did not fully work as I wanted. Luckily, most of them were really very small LED matrix circuits.
How much experience does the OP have with RGB LEDs, power supplies, and any kind of LED matrix?