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Topic: UC1610B with U8Glib / Can't interface correctly. (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic

olikraus

You need ceramic caps. Size does not matter to much, but caramic caps are almost not available with more than 4.7uF, so i assume your 10uF or 100uF caps are of the wrong type.

You need this: http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Murata-Electronics/RDER71H225K2K1C03B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt3KoXD5rJ2N63%2fI6WSrv73l3zEibnf0f8%3d

You can try with a 2.2uF electrolytic cap or your 10uF type. In principle you should be able (after initalization by the controller) to measure about 10V (or more) on one of the pins of the cap.
In principle ceramic caps have some electric advantages over electrolytic caps and are usually prefered (or required) for charge pumps as they are used in a display controller.

Oliver


fahad1

#16
Sep 21, 2014, 02:29 pm Last Edit: Sep 21, 2014, 02:54 pm by fahad1 Reason: 1
yes yes :) i know the type, i just didn't have a larger value of ceramic cap so i thought just may be electrolytic might do a miracle :) anyway, i'd get them tomorrow, put them on as well as i'd put on 1M VR to set the contrasts externally :)


and thanks for the information. Right now the caps aren't storing anything as it seems, i'd get ceramic ones and try on those. i got a few ceramic ones but they are either too small or too large. i got one labelled 473K (colored green) i presume this is too large.. (attachment)

Update: tried 173k too, won't work. i guess the only way is to place a 2.2uf.

olikraus

Interessting picture. How did you connect the display? Is it soldered directly? The flex cable is also very sensitive.

Oliver

fahad1

i called in a local mobile repairing guy to sold me enamel wire with the connector.
couldn't find that connector anywhere in the city, searched a lot!

so anyway the connections are correct, we checked their continuities too

fahad1

So i even added 2.2uF and it still didnt work
i thought lets add up the VR circuit and added it up too..
it doesn't even fill its contrasts complete with VR which i thought it would with that..

anyway this is a tantalum cap 2.2 uf 25v besides this tiny green cap

i've another that is non polar, big, square blue that says 225T on that but i can't get a supply across any caps. nothing like 10v? and the lcd still does not work :(

olikraus

Yes, i read across the datasheet. The vr (and two more components) are probably required.

Oliver

fahad1

i added the VR what about the two more components?

Also, if its easier for you, can you make out from the following what it is using? that's the actual code sent on some very old atmel microcontroller. i tried a little on porting the code, but i did not understand the protocol so left it out..

would be too grateful if you could see this one too buddy..

Attached is the whole code, here's how it begins;

#include <reg51.h>
#define  uint  unsigned int
#define  uchar unsigned char
//#include "chinese_cha.h"
#include "assii.h"

#define data_port P1

sbit    cs1 = P3^2;

sbit    rs = P3^1;


sbit   rw =P3^3;
sbit   rd =P3^4;
sbit   sclk =P1^6;
sbit   sda =P1^7;
sbit   res =P3^0;


olikraus

Difficult to read the code.

Actually, i still think your wiring might have an issue. Maybe start from the beginning:
Specifiy your software, what pins did you use. How did you connect the display? What external componens did you add? How did you wire everything. A scematic often helps. Just draw something on a paper, make picture, post it.... we can review then.

Oliver

fahad1

thank you oliver, i'll create a new schematic first of all post it here tomorrow and get going with the whole process again, also i've got multiple of these LCDs so what i'd do is shortly, i'd get another LCD sold up with enamel wire too, just in case this lcd has some issue.

However, i'll post the schematic, once we've discussed it, i'll go on assembling it in tomorrow. I hope we could make this work.

olikraus


fahad1

Hi,

Attached are the schematics. I hope you can read them. If there's difficulty reading these, i'll provide you one using proteus or something.

Let me know if its good to go.

olikraus

#27
Sep 26, 2014, 06:56 am Last Edit: Sep 26, 2014, 06:59 am by olikraus Reason: 1
Except for the reset circuit, it looks correct. Often it is ok to connect the reset directly to 3.3V, However, sometimes an RC circuit is required. The schematic in one of my previous posts did contain a suitable reset circuit.

I have not verified all pins of your schematic against the datasheet of your display.


Oliver

fahad1

i tried connect Reset initially to the 3.3v it did not work so i used your circuit.
An RC circuit is as following right;


3.3v -> Resister -> reset pin -> capacitor -> GND
anyway, i'll try the whole setup again.

If i want to check the LCD in 4 bit parallel mode, would it be too difficult to port your existing code into 4 bit parallel?

what are my options if all the circuit is correct? so far as i find out, the circuit seems to be completely working as specified.
SCK - 13
SDA/SDIN - 11
CS0 - 10
CD - 9


olikraus

Quote
3.3v -> Resister -> reset pin -> capacitor -> GND

yes

Quote
SCK - 13
SDA/SDIN - 11
CS0 - 10
CD - 9

Yes, but you need to specify the pin numbers with the u8glib constructor (software spi). With software spi you could use any arduino pin numbers.

Oliver

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