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Author Topic: Connectors for Kynar AWG30 to solid core AWG24 wires  (Read 1696 times)
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Monterrey, N.L. México
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Can anybody suggest some practical connectors for Kynar AWG30 to solid core AWG24 wires?

I will have to make 60 or so connections of this type for my latest project (already designed and working) , for the signals in my model railroad layout using all pins of an Arduino Mega2560. 44 pins for track turnout setting pushbuttons and the rest (but 0 & 1) for 21 signals set to reflect the turnouts' latest position.

I have soldered three Kynar AWG30 10" pigtails to each signal, just to pass from the layout top down below thru a 1/16" hole, but then I want to go to a thicker wire gauge(AWG24) to reduce resistance. And for practical and maintenance purposes I would like to avoid soldering this connections and instead, use some kind of magic ... "Connectus miraculus" (maybe non existent, but in Hogwarts) connector that can connect & disconnect AWG30 on one side and AWG24 on the other.

I have tried some "European type" terminal (barrier) blocks with 2 screws for each line, and they seem to hold well the extra thin AWG30 wires. The other side AWG24, is of course no problem.

My question is, does anybody know of a more practical connector type (male/female), maybe quick connect,  that can work for this case?

Any suggestions will be highly appreciated.


Gracias.   smiley
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Are you up to fastening connectors to each end of the wire? If so, almost any quick connect type would work -- anything from plain stereo 3.5mm plugs, to RJ-11 jacks. There's work involved in preparing each wire end, but once done, it'll probably hook/unhook easily.
If it were me, I'd just tape/glue/nail terminal screw strips on the underside, and screw the two sides in, like you already tried, though.
Another option, which is still used for some telephone installations I think, is wiring posts.
A third one is knife-based through-insulation clamping connections.
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Yes, you got my idea.

I will probably stick to use these screw terminal blocks. I have many of them.

They, have 6 independent lines each and can be cut into smaller blocks. I can just cut them in two parts, 3 lines each, and nail them under the layout. And then go to the Arduino pins and breadboard panel with the AWG24 hook-up wire.

The other possibilty as you suggest are the RJ-11 connectors but then, I would have to clamp the plug/sockets, but then if I have to change one of the signals I would have to cut one of the connectors in order to remove and replace it.

I guess I'll keep it simple with the screw terminal blocks. If I ever burn one of LED's out, I'll just unscrew three terminals and replace the signal with a new one.

Gracias, jwatte!
« Last Edit: April 05, 2012, 01:30:32 am by bibre » Logged

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I just did something very similar.  I had several 30 AWG wires going to light bulbs.   I just used solder & heat-shrink tubing to connect-into a larger multi-conductor cable.  I also used a bit of heat-shrink to hold the bundle of 30 AWG wires together, and another larger piece of heat-shrink over the entire multi-connection joint.   The bundle of 30 AWG wires is also glued-down with hot glue, so that a single (shortest) wire doesn't take all of the strain if the wires get pulled-on somehow. 

I love the European terminal blocks, and I used two of them on this project.    But, where the 30 AWG wires hook-up to the multiconductor, I didn't have space for that.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2012, 02:36:44 pm by DVDdoug » Logged

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That is a pretty good solution for your project, DVDdoug.

I guess that you got a very sturdy connection just by using the heat shrinks.

I also love these European terminal blocks. They give you freedom to change things over, specially on a model railroad layout.

As I said at first, I am trying to avoid soldering these particular connections because I want flexibility otherwise your solution would be exactly the right one for me too.   smiley

Thank you, DVDdoug.

BTW: Why the DVD? Do you also like to watch movies, like me?   smiley-cool
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Hi guys,

This is not exactly about my original topic but I think it may also fit here.

I need to find some like these, Scotch Lock Quick Splice 22-18 AWG Wire Connectors, I found on eBay but smaller ones which can work with 24 AWG wires. The smallest I've found fit 22 AWG  smiley-yell

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110738054941?sPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Maybe someone knows where I could find them.

Thank you. smiley
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lol wirewrap 30AWG to male square headers

scrap of perf to female headers, solder 24 from female to board (maybe enlarge the holes a bit to make strain reliefs)

or just wirewrap to the 24, once its all in place even that amount of connections with an iron would only take a min



« Last Edit: April 12, 2012, 12:02:50 am by Osgeld » Logged


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Hey Osgeld! smiley-lol

Ok, this is not for a board or breadboard.

What I actually want to do is to "tap" an already existing 24 AWG line on the wiring side of my model R.R. to derive a sense connection (pulled to ground) to my Mega2540 inputs in the shortest/easiest possible way.

See the wires already go from the train layout control panel momentary pushbuttons to the turnout double-solenoid machines. I don't want to strip the wire and just tap it there by wrapping another wire to it in order to keep distance to the MEGA short. So, I was thinking of these Quick Splice connects to do it in a better way. smiley-wink

Thanx!!!!


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bout the only thing I could find for a quick inline tap is 22-24 gauge (which if you squash it enough, I have seen the blades of these things poke out the other side of the plastic)

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/177766-1/177766-1-ND/1153003

expensive enough (geez)

leave you a few options, wirewrap to larger wire then solder and inline splice it (really once you get the hang of it its like 5 seconds to wrap, 30 seconds to solder 40 "pins" ... though it might take a week to get the hang of it heh) , or strip a good 5 or 6 inches and fold it up so it doubles its size each fold to mimic a 24 + gauge , or squash the crap out of it with some channel locks (works well enough in my past) and hope you dont cut the 30 gauge

if you dig around enough 3M makes some telephone grade taps, but they also top out at 24 gauge (and I havent had much luck finding them)
« Last Edit: April 12, 2012, 01:17:27 am by Osgeld » Logged


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Quote
to solder 40 "pins"

Thank you for following my project (42 pins for this), Osgeld. It will work and I'll let U know! smiley

The option @ Digikey is good but of course out of the question. Too expensive, I think.

Quote
or strip a good 5 or 6 inches and FOLD it up

Hey, you may've hit the spot!   smiley-cool

What I can do is just buy one item of these Quick Splice Connects and fold up my wire and then try to crimp and see if I get any positive contact.

What do you think, Osgeld?
« Last Edit: April 12, 2012, 01:47:08 am by bibre » Logged

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worth a try
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@Osgeld

Quote
... or just wirewrap to the 24, once its all in place even that amount of connections with an iron would only take a min

I think I will stick to you idea of wire wrapping the 30AWG directly to the 24AWG. smiley

Now I need to buy some heat shrink tubing to cover these connections. Do you think I should buy the 1/8" (3mm) tubing or buy the 3/32" for a snugger connection? Would there be enough space inside the 3/32" tube for the 24 wrapped with the 30?

Thank you !
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I am really bad at guestimating shrink tube sizes, and the smallest I have on hand is 3mm, but looking at 30 and 24 guage next to eachother 3mm seems a bit large but it should shrink down ok,  and just from a mental picture of 3/32 (2.38mm) it might be a little snug on the coil, but not impossible (IMO)

it sorta depends on how much solder you blob up on there, cause remember wirewrap doesnt hold (for very long) on rounded parts

« Last Edit: May 01, 2012, 07:04:38 pm by Osgeld » Logged


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Right, Osegeld. I'll just order some of the 3mm and see what happens. smiley

Gracias.
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