I already have the Pro Mini Atmega328 5V 16MHz Strong and the NANO 3 Strong as well - Of which BOTH works wonderfully with Arduino IDE. I want to be able to make the NEW boards ESP8285 and ESP8266 to work as well.
This board:(Marked the LED)
I am trying to upload a SIMPLE Blink sketch and I can NOT make the LED Blink.
On the board there are TWO LEDs - One is ON and the other marked "L" - this one I want to be able to Blink - And I can't.
I have tried to upload a simple Blink sketch defining the GPIO for the led as well - with no luck. Added:
#define LED_BUILTIN 2
I am getting Errors all the time when I use the following Settings for this board on the Arduino IDE:
I am NOT able to work with the Board - I need to press the FLASH Button in order to make it work - But even after doing that I am NOT able to make the Little "L" Led Blink as I want to.
I also have the ESP8266 Board from DIYMORE and I have not tested it yet - I want to be sure that I have a functioning boards before I work with both of them.
I would be happy if someone can assist me and Help me making this board work and understanding how to work with it. It is a great board for what I want to do since it have break out all the pins wth Ground and V on each one - Easy Sensor Board!
It seems that I am missing something and I would be happy to know what?
Please advise and assist.
Well I did Not.. But I have tried all from 0 to 16 and it did not work as well.
I just followed the last reliable post that was about ESP-M2 WIFI and mentioned it should be on PIN 2.
But as I have mentioned above - I Tried them all (from 0 to 16) and Nothing.
Should I try a different settings??
Thanks
Set the reset method from "ck" to "nodemcu" and your programmer to "USBasp" then everything should work fine.
Pin 2 is indeed the correct one for the build in LED.
int led = 2;
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:
void setup() {
// initialize the digital pin as an output.
pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
}
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever:
void loop() {
digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(1000); // wait for a second
I have this version btw, but should work the same:
@Aryeduino: the ESP8285 DM ESP-M2 board has the green LED labeled with 'L' connected to GPIO16 active-low.
While I thought (like you) that this would be a great board to play with sensors, I found that the board has really a big design flaw: the two positive pin rows labeled with 'V' are connected to the unregulated input voltage and not to the 3.3V of the AMS1117 regulator; this makes them pretty much useless since the user wants to connect sensors, OLEDs and other stuff which has to work with 3.3V because the IO level of the ESP8285 should not exceed 3.3V.
Just connect it to USB, measure the 'V' voltage and you will get ~4.62V which is the voltage after D2;
and if you power the board via the white input connector (labeled 5-10V IN) you will get the input voltage on the 'V' pin rows
fortunately it is not that hard to fix this: on the PCB side you can see that the 'V' rows are directly connected to the +IN pin; you can easily cut the conductor track there and then connect on the other side to the +3.3V pin with a short wire (I've not yet done this since I just found this brainless design, but it should work).
You should contact DM and tell them about this brainless design - I just did so, and the more do the earlier we might get a Rev2 ...
MegaFan:
I found that the board has really a big design flaw: the two positive pin rows labeled with 'V' are connected to the unregulated input voltage and not to the 3.3V of the AMS1117 regulator; this makes them pretty much useless since the user wants to connect sensors, OLEDs and other stuff which has to work with 3.3V because the IO level of the ESP8285 should not exceed 3.3V.
...
You should contact DM and tell them about this brainless design - I just did so, and the more do the earlier we might get a Rev2 ...
The versions with the shielded ESP sub-modules like aryeduino's break out the input voltage as you say. But the versions with the exposed ESP chips like wailer's have regulated 3.3v on one of the sets of pin headers (labelled 3v3). Not sure if the boards with the exposed ESP chips are "rev 2" versions - they still sell both types.
