Arduino UNO or Leonardo?

Hello, I was wondering which model of Arduino I should buy. I heard that Leonardo is newer but I don't know if UNO is better for learning Arduino's basic functions. Which Arduino should I buy?

I doubt it makes any difference at the level you will be using them. The UNO is more mature and likely to have fewer "undocumented features" (bugs) than the Leo, so maybe you should get a UNO.


Rob

Get one of each, good prices at www.nkcelectronics.com right now.

I would agree with Graynomad get a UNO it is a bit more straightforward.

Get an UNO not only its having no bug issues or no untested stuff left, its also providing you 2 chips on one board , one being the standard ATmega and the other being the USB to Serial converted chip that you may in the future use to make your UNO HID device by doing DFU programme so PLAY gets extended.

Differences in the amount and location of digital pins, PWM channels, analog inputs and ICSP connectors. Among other features.
The attached image can help you spot some differences:

If you are a begginer like me i would reccomend you the UNO.
As others said, it's basic and has less bugs.

Whatever you choose good luck have fun :wink:

I haven't seen a dual-inline-pin version of the Leonardo - only the surface mount version. With a Uno, you can pull the 328p from its socket and put it into a circuit after programming it. You won't (as far as I know) have that option with the Leonardo.

Yes, ATMega32U4 is only available in SMD versions.
10mm x 10mm TQFN leaded part
7mm x 7mm QFN no lead part

As a newbie with both an Uno R3 and a Leonardo I need to echo everyone else and tell you to get the Uno. The Leonardo can be super finicky if you try to do crazy things like upload code, use a serial monitor, use it as a USB input device, or look at it funny.

edit: Wow, slow moving forum, should've checked the post dates before bumping.

Perhaps. We get some posts with one question from the original poster, and then days of discussion among every one else.
Sometime with comments months! later. So a little over a week behind is not too bad 8)

Can anyone tell me if he/she has tried manufacturing an arduino on their own? What was the approx. cost including the ICs? please give me an idea for a quantity of 5!

Sure, many of us have.
You can see a bunch of examples of arduino-like boards here
http://www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17/

PCB, $3.40 each in lots of 10 - 54mm x 69mm. Or you can wire it up discretely on a piece of perfboard.
ATMega328P-PU
10K resistor
anti-latch up diode (such as 1N4148)
16 MHz xtal
22 pF caps
100nF caps
DC power connector
reverse polarity protection diode (such as 1N4158)
USB connector
PTC polyfuse
6 pin female header
8 pin female headers
FT232RL chip (or a FTDI module, or a CP2102 module)
2x3 icsp header
reset switch
5v regulator
47uF caps
4 LEDs
4 1K resistors

leaves out the autopower switching parts

Price it up, see what you get. dipmicro.com has good prices on almost all the parts.
Some things are only available in surface mount, such as the polyfuse.

If you want a minimal component board (no USB interface) you can build up this board
http://www.nkcelectronics.com/arduino-runtime-board-rev-b.html

Adafruit's Boarduino is a nice Uno-compatible clone, and inexpensive. It has no USB interface on board, so an FTDI cable or one of these is needed for programming. Makes sense to me not to duplicate that on every board. The Boarduino is open-source, so if a person wanted a bunch (maybe 10) and was willing to get the boards made and buy the parts, I'd bet they could be made for $10 a copy, maybe less.

Or the Arweeny if you want something smaller.

There is also the MDC "Really Bare Bones Board": http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/rbbb-kit

The "real" arduino is not too badly priced. To build ONE would probably cost you more than half of the full price, plus whatever you value your time for assembly. (expensive bits: CPU and USB chip at about $4 each, PCB at about $5, maybe $3 worth of connectors...) Real cost savings show up when you start buying in quantity, and/or you can eliminate parts of the circuit because they're not relevant to your particular project, and/or you can simplify the PCB and use "parts on hand" to limit the components you actually need to buy.