CrossRoads, thanks again!
Yeah, I guess I was making too big of a fuss about the software multiplexing, it's not the end of the world after all
One last "dumb" question: You mentioned some pull-up resistors which should be 220 Ohm. Which one are those in the diagram and what is their role?
I think I'm going to create my cube based on this diagram and based on your explanations. But I'll start with a 5x5x5 one. It's just too complex to aim for the big rabbit from start...
CrossRoads:
The common cathodes need 64 wires, 1 per column, usually soldered to the PCB that makes the base of the cube.
72 wires total.
Vs 8 x 16 wires = 128
Ach, you hardware guys always come up with cool ways of doing things!
Yes, indeed - but its always the software that actually makes it look cool when running!
For instance, I have no idea how to write the code that makes it do the vertical paddle wheel kind of rotation, or the bubble rise up thru the middle kind of thing.
Well then, the theory is clear
All that remains to do is to order the components, wait 5 weeks until they arrive from China, solder them together and write the software Should be ready by spring
Too bad I can't buy the components here in Romania in some local store. Well, I could, but they'd cost 10 times more as sellers and stores are really greedy here.
Anyway, I know I've said this quite a few times already, but I'll say it one more time: thank you very much for taking the time and patience to explain this to me in detail. I've learned a lot from this discussion.
I'll be back with pictures and videos when I'll have something usable or perhaps with a few more questions even before that if things don't go well
I have built a 5x5x5 cube which is not powered yet but, getting close.
For the wires that go to the layers, I used bare 24Ga. craft wire that I found in Walmart. The wire has a similar shine as the LED leads so, it is not as obvious that the wires are in the cube. Care has to be taken running the wires but, they work nicely.
Un4Seen:
I can see it Nice! Aren't those 5mm LEDs?
Yes they are 5mm diffused LEDs. I started with a 3x3x3 cube and made it work basically but, had one bad LED. I then bought 100 more LEDs and made the cube bigger to 5x5x5.
Funny thing, I was looking at the same seller, only at his 3mm LEDs. I guess he has good prices. I'd like to use 3mm ones because it makes the cube more empty, more transparent, more visible (up to 5x5x5 it probably does not matter but when you get to 8x8x8 it does).
CrossRoads, I have made a few modifications to your wiring diagram, to make it more understandable for amateurs like myself and to be sure that I have understood things well. I hope you don't mind.
The information I have added:
The polarity of the LEDs
The value of the resistors
The value of the capacitors
The type of the MOSFETs and which of their legs goes where
The connections between the Arduino and the shift registers
I have removed all the additional circuitry that was around the Arduino or other micro controller on the other pins because I thought that it's not needed. In other words the only pins of the Arduino that need to be connected to anything are D10/SS, D11/MOSI, D13/SCK and GND. I hope I was not wrong...
Could you please suggest some other MOSFET instead of NDP6020P-ND? These are barely found and expensive on eBay and cannot be found at all in my town's local shops...
Un4Seen:
Could you please suggest some other MOSFET instead of NDP6020P-ND? These are barely found and expensive on eBay and cannot be found at all in my town's local shops...
Thank you!
I'd rather not go into the SMD area for now, though Keep it simple is my motto
Is there some other normal MOSFET instead of the NDP6020P that I could use?
What do you think of the power supplies?