Recent Posts

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1
Deutsch / Re: DC Motor
Last post by Rentner - Today at 10:32 pm
Hallo,

eigendlich must Du nur mal etwas suchen, ob da eine LED binkt 1s ein und 1 aus oder ob da ein Motor 6 s lauft und 30 min aus ist ist doch sch.... egal.

BlinkwitoutDelay gibts unter Beispiele in der IDE , nebenbei kannst Du dann machen was immer du willst das stört dem Motor nicht.

wie du den Motor mit deinem Motormodul ansteuert shet in dem Link zum Tutorial den ich Dir gegeben habe.

Heinz
2
Sensors / Detecting water level
Last post by hosseinzr - Today at 10:31 pm
Hi guys,

I came up with a problem with my setup and was wondering if I could find/make some sort of sensor to modify my control over Arduino.
I have a water tank for my humidifier and need a certain amount of water in it at all time. I set a solenoid valve to supply the water at regular intervals. So as the temperature is quite high, there is a rather uncontrolled evaporation in this water tank. But to have a more rigorous control over this, my Arduino setup needs to have a sense from water level. As it is working in pretty humid conditions, I don't think water level sensor is helpful for my purpose (it might get wet all the time even without it being in water). So I think the best way is to supply the water with the solenoid valve in excessive amount but make it idle whenever needed with some kind of sensing system (after water level passes a specific level).
I'd be grateful if somebody could help me with this problem.

Thanks.

   
3
Generale / Re: due lm35 comandano un serv...
Last post by Cantatore74 - Today at 10:31 pm
Per quanto riguarda (sensore fiamma A0 pin A7) effettivamente è un mio errore dovuto al passaggio da Arduino Uno a Mega, il pin A7 è il nuovo pin. Mannaggia ho dimenticato di metterlo dopo, dovevo fare (sensore fiamma A7 //A0 per promemoria). L'analogico va al pin A7 e il digitale al 23.

alla riga 9:#define LampRed3 4, allora ci sono 3 led rossi e 4 verdi  e non ho fatto altro che numerarli, in questo caso LampRed3 (terzo Led rosso) è collegato al pin 4, il 3 è tutt'uno con il nominativo del led e credo che non dovrebbe interferire con il pin 4 o mi sbaglio?

Per quanto riguarda il buzzer non ci ho fatto caso del maiuscolo/minuscolo e anche del nominativo differente, ma questo dipende dal fatto che ho cancellato dei programmi dimenticando di cancellare tutti i comandi.

Si effettivamente ieri stavo rivedendo i relè e i led che erano riportati a doppio con due nomi differenti. I relè li dovrei rinominarli. Per non parlare che ho fatto confusione con i led (quale doveva fare cosa) dato che stò montando il tutto in un contenitore di un combinatore telefonico, i led devono funzionare in modo intuitivo in base alla disposizione messa senza considerare ciò che è scritto sul display.

analogicPin5 che diventa A9 inizialmente era A5, ho voluto in parte mantenere il programma originale e ho cambiato solo il pin assegnato. Per voi che state abitualmente a programmare notate questi particolari, le cose fatte per bene si và con un certo ordine, ma per mè che è il mio primo assemblaggio questi particolari non sapevo che facessero molto, ora capisco che portano a confusione, ciò che è collegato al pin A9 che è un ohmetro dopotutto funziona bene.

Questo progetto dopo tantissimi errori che son riuscito a risolvermeli da solo dovevo prima o poi fare degli errori stupidi, maggiormente quando ho dovuto lasciare un lavoro a metà per riprenderla dopo qualche giorno e non ricordarmi dove ero arrivato.

Io mi chiedo perchè il programma non dà l'errore di conflitti prima di caricarlo su arduino?
Per la pulizia infatti successivamente dovevo chiedere se c'era qualcuno disponibile a controllarlo del tutto e togliere qualche riga di troppo.

Ok Patrik_M credo che l'intoppo maggiore è quel A0, apporterò le modifiche e vedremo cosa succede.
Per il LampRed3 cosa devo fare provoca qualche errore il 3?
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Programming Questions / DS1307 with RTClib
Last post by PatrickRosa - Today at 10:30 pm
Hello dear friends...

I´m making a clock with RTC DS1307 module and RTClib.

The libary give me the hour format like 16:2, and i want to write like 16:02 on LCD.

The libary example use the code: Serial.print(now.minute(), DEC);

Does anyone can help me?
Thank you!
 8)


Patrick
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Français / Re: ESP8266 et arduino
Last post by EricRecifal33480 - Today at 10:30 pm
Désolé je viens de trouver ma réponse j'avais oublié le s à la fin de getHour
6
Product Design / Re: Room pressure monitor
Last post by spycatcher2k - Today at 10:29 pm
How much are you paying for someone to design & build your system?
7
Français / Re: Plusieurs leds et placemen...
Last post by jpbbricole - Today at 10:29 pm
Mais je l'ai fait, avec 4 LED, avec une résistance commune de 1k. et 5v. comme le jpeg fourni et sans problème. Je ferais un essai avec des LED disparates pour compliquer.

Bonne nuit
jpbbricole
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Project Guidance / Re: Noise Pollution Monitor
Last post by suttle0577 - Today at 10:29 pm
The grove sound sensor will output a 0 - 1023 value to an analogue pin say A0.  ( voltage output increases ).

there is no way to know what the values will translate to in db without some test equipment.

if you do try using it remember that it is 3.3v not 5v.

you say that you want to count how many nights noise levels get too high. you could use the device to set a threshhold level so that when noise goes over that level it trigers a counter to go up. also a timer so that it only counts once per night. or something like that.


hope this helps.
9
Programming Questions / Re: comparing Boolean arrays
Last post by econjack - Today at 10:28 pm
OK, I see what you're saying. I think I was interpreting the "will scale" statement the wrong way.
10
Microcontrollers / Re: How to use 328PB as a Ardu...
Last post by hansibull - Today at 10:28 pm
Quote
@hansibull: that crystal run? what are you thinking, was that to prove a point?
It was a big design mistake I did before I knew the 328PB lack the following option. However it did infact work on the 48PB, 88PB and 328PB (all bough from Digikey). This design is no problem if the MCU supports full swing, but in this case it's very risky indeed.

Quote
Everywhere the power supply traces run act like an antenna, they tend to be resonant at specific frequencies. There are analogies to bridge building. The Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse was what they use to show in physics classes. To work properly the bypass capacitor needs to be placed at the ends of the power distribution traces, and scattered along the trace (e.g. at each IC is good). To keep a bridge from resonating we might add weights to the tension cable to shift its resonant frequency (though I'm not a bridge designer).
First of all, I'm not trying to defend bad design practices at all. I'm a big fan of doing things "properly". However the AVR microcontroller is very tolerant to _really_ poor designs. I've seen a commercial product where an ATmega328P in a DIP package was soldered on a circuit board without any bypass caps at all! It's just terrible indeed, but it did in fact work.

When designing less advanced PCBs at work I usually stick with the ATmega324P in TQFP44 package. I use a total of four 100nF caps, one located on each side. I make sure the ground return path is short, and that the external oscillator is placed as close to the MCU as possible.

Last winter we tested some of the boards I've designed at a norwegian certification organ (much like UL and Intertek). In the test chamber they radiated radio waves from 30 MHz to 6 GHz with a peak power of about 150W or so. None of the microcontrollers failed during the test, even though some of the boards were two layer design without metal shielding.

What I'm trying to say is that even though one should take the laws of physics into account when designing a PCB this is just a slow 8-bit micro, not a sub gigahertz 1152 pin FPGA with ten different power rails.
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