Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Deutsch / Re: Pulsierender LED Strip zu ...
Last post by FlavorDave - Today at 10:36 pm
Hier ist der Sketch...

Ich habe das Problem eines 3. Buttons versucht zu umgehen indem ich den Tap_BUTTON versucht habe 2 Funktionen zu geben. Beim langen pressen soll er die Brightnessfuntion von Fast LED in der Case Funktion triggern. Jedoch ohne erfolg =(. vll findet jemand das Problem.

Ist mein erstes Sketch deshalb noch total unordentlich und es fehlen noch die copyrightkomments von den teilen die ich aus anderen Codes entnommen habe ect...


LG Flavor Dave
2
What is the solenoid supposed to do? As far as I can see, it isn't needed to control the camera at all.
You really need to be careful with the 12V supply. If that is connected to your camera you can kiss the camera goodbye.

As far as the connection to the 5D is concerned, I assume that it is the same as a 50D. In which case, you should have two connections to the 5D, plus ground, on a stereo plug. The tip is the shutter, the ring is the focus, and the barrel is the ground. This page has a couple of good diagrams of the connections.
You do not need the 3V battery - it might even be preventing the focus and shutter from working. All you need to do to fire the shutter or focus is to ground their connection to the barrel.
When you use the N3, as you press the button, a connection inside first grounds the focus connection. As you press further it also grounds the shutter connection. You just need to simulate that with two digital pins.
It's best to have two optocouplers. One for shutter and one for focus. I have (I hope) attached a diagram of how I set up my 50D with two different kinds of optocoupler (which were all I had at the time).
The TIL119 was enough to drive the Focus on its own but the 4N28 couldn't manage it. I added the 2N2222 to provide extra drive and that works fine.
A 4N26 will probably be able to drive Focus or Shutter. It appears that you are using 220ohm resistors which ought to be sufficient.

Pete
3
Portugues / Re: Ajuda com programação entr...
Last post by luisilva - Today at 10:36 pm
Olha sabes como faço para o meu botao do visual basic sempre que eu clico nele aquilo clicar mais vezes? por exemplo sempre que eu clico nele aquilo lê os valores do automatico que estão no arduino mas apenas lê 1 vez porque so clico 1 vez se eu clicar 2 vezes aquilo lia 2 vezes, nao sabes como faço para aquilo ficar sempre a clicar como se fosse uma macro ou assim?
Isto´é o fórum Arduino, não é o fórum Visual Basic. No entanto, basta alterar o programa do Arduino para que este entre num estado em que vá enviando as mensagens para o PC regulamente e com intervalos fixos. Tem que criar mais uma mensagem que seja lida pelo programa do Aduino que coloque este nesse estado.
4
Software / Re: 5 Canali indipendenti per ...
Last post by Standardoil - Today at 10:35 pm
Ok capito
5
Ok, i have managed to find out the co-ordinates the touchscreen is registering.
My screen is 320x240.
when i select the bottom right corner, the touchscreen reads (0, 240).
when i select the bottom left corner, the touchscreen reads (0, 0).
top left (320,0)
top right (320, 240).
6
Software / Re: 5 Canali indipendenti per ...
Last post by Datalife - Today at 10:33 pm
Il problema è che prima bisogna selezionare la serie voluta (cioè il valore di numRecord da 1 a 20), poi confermare, leggere / editare / riscrivere, e a questo punto si deve selezionare un'altra serie ecc.
In sostanza la logica di gestione può trovarsi in diverse "situazioni" (schermata principale, selezione serie, edit valori, eventuale altro) che vanno "impostate" e "riconosciute" usando un'ulteriore variabile di stato, il cui valore indica in ogni momento la situazione attuale (e quindi con una struttura if/else if si seleziona la parte di programma da eseguire nella specifica situazione).
E quindi mi diventa veramente complesso, vedo come andare avanti dato che per la mia ignoranza è molto arduo ci provo e non mollo.


Aspetta, fammi capire
tu vorresti simulare alba e tramonto, ho capito bene?
Si ma vorrei gestire liberamente ed indipendentemente tutto  ora - minuti e i 5 canali in uscita
desidererei impostare ora con valori intensità uscite a mio piacimento
e questo lo vorrei fare per 10 step come alba e 10 come tramonto
7
Project Guidance / Re: Solenoid and Camera Shutte...
Last post by MorganS - Today at 10:32 pm
Your F**ing diagram shows a 3V battery and a 12V solenoid. Even worse, you show a TIP120 darlington transistor, which will need almost 3V to turn on, leaving nothing for the solenoid.

What does the solenoid do?

Have you tested the camera shutter works with just a piece of wire jumping the terminals on the 3.5mm plug? You probably need to join the two active pins together - the camera won't take a photo if you ground the shutter wire without also grounding the pre-focus wire.
8
Deutsch / Re: 7" TFT Shield - Jumper set...
Last post by BullSimons - Today at 10:31 pm
Nach einer Anleitung habe ich die Beleuchtung von 5V auf 3,3V geändert.

Alles was ich kurz geschafft habe waren seltsame Streifen, aber nichts was zum Beispiel passt (Beispiel aus der Lib).

Mit meinem CLPD TFT hatte ich 0 Probleme, das jetzige hat den SSD1963 und da klappt überhaupt nichts :(

Ich werde mir wieder nach einem CLPD  schauen und die lange Lieferzeit in Kauf nehmen...

Für weitere Lösungsvorschläge bin ich   aber dankbar.
9
Français / Re: Programmateur d'arrosage a...
Last post by sancho119 - Today at 10:29 pm
A terme, l'idée est d'avoir un serveur domotique dédié (J'ai un raspberry qui pourra faire ça), je ne sais pas bien encore sous quelle forme. Soit en box jeedom si j'en peux ajouter ma page, soit un serveur spécifique.

Pour le moment je construis ma page , et j'essaie de construire mon code de communication dans les 2 sens.
Je suis parti du principe que mon arduino devait être en mode serveur pour communiquer et recevoir les requêtes, mais est ce la bonne option ?
10
I think the best course of action is what Pert suggested - nano or pro mini clone without pre-soldered connectors, and solder on round pin header. That gives you a gap of ~0.2" between the boards.

You can also solder a pro mini (but not a nano, since there's stuff on the underside) directly onto your circuit board - put holes matching the pro mini footprint on your PCB, and solder it down.  Making the connections can be tricky, but it's not that bad. I position the board, put no-clean gel flux on the holes, and then solder them - when the solder finally wets the metal around the hole in the PCB you're soldering it down to, you'll see the solder suddenly appear to get sucked in - that's what you're going for. Also inspect the board from the bottom to make sure you see solder on the underside of all holes. I've used this method in a number of designs, and it's now my favorite way to mount pro mini's on a larger PCB - though I would hesitate to use it where the board will be exposed to significant vibration or flexing.
I think if this (or another) project becomes so definitively "done" (meaning no more PCB revisions likely ever), I might do something like that. In fact most of the China based PCB fab houses I've worked with don't charge any noticeable amount more to cut rectangles or slots into your boards. So I guess I could make a rectangle just slightly smaller than the NANO, so I could place it flush without the USB chip and other bottom components hitting the board, and solder edgewise like you're suggesting.

But this current project is still a little "early" for me to make a permanent attachment. So if I can find some female headers a little lower, without costing 20X more, I'd buy some.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10