I am planning to use Arduino and RasberryPi for my old but rebuild 23.000 pounds wheel loader. The first part of the project is to add a display for all machine data like pressure and temperatures. I do have all sensors for this and it works in the "lab".
So now how can I put this on the machine which works in mud and rain with strong vibration while working ? I doubt I can use a closed case due to heat, but maybe I can with a big heat sink ?
Also the cables I use now to connect the pins will not survive a harsh environment. Are there any special plugs to connect the arduino pins to preferable a board which providers a a kind of loop tib terminal/cable clamp ?
While I haven't ruggedized an arduino, I used to work in a telemetry company and have ruggedized bespoke integrated kit for use in hazardous + very rough conditions, and these few tips from past experience came to mind.
Potting: once your board is tested, put it in a small appropriately sized tray and fill with potting epoxy. for bench prototyping, at a pinch you can use candle wax (but NOT for field, heat can cause wax to vaporize and become fire risk). pro tip: remember that the viscosity of your potting compound changes with local ambient temperature, so always test one board before doing a batch or you may wreck a lot of kit (epoxy will either not fill into all areas, or will be too thin and seep into connectors)
Cable bleed: both sides of cable shielding must be properly sealed. liquids seep through cable shielding and can cause big problems.
Enclosure: If heat is an issue usually using a metal finned enclosure for the device will wick away enough heat. If power usage is no issue, you can use a TEC to assist. When sealing, always use the right kind of sealant, some sealants release vapor that will corrode copper over time. Also, use marine-grade screws in field if you don't want to have to use a drill to re-open it later.
Connectors: we had a lot of joy with the Bulgin Buccaneer range. They aren't perfect in high pressure rapidly changing temperature environment though, we had to pot them after installation for best results.
I made boards with db15 connector and thermally conductive 2-part epoxy. We did a lot of boards, had bigger bottles: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mg-chemicals/832TC-450ML/473-1089-ND/655660
Needed 2 hour bake in a low temp oven to cure it, or wait a really long time. Maybe we hadn't stirred both parts well enough before mixing together and pouring into a mold with the card. We were doing 12 at a time in square muffin pans.
While i have never rugged AN arduino, I wont to add a measurement company and have ruggedized tailored integrated kit to be used in unsafe + terribly rough conditions, and these
few tips from past experience came to mind.
Potting: once your board is tested, place it in a very little fittingly sized receptacle and fill with potting epoxy.
for bench prototyping, at a pinch you can use candle wax (but NOT for field, heat can cause wax to vaporize and become fire risk).
pro tip: bear in mind that the consistency of your potting compound changes with native close temperature, so always test one board before doing a batch or you may wreck a
lot of kit (epoxy can either not fill into all areas, or will be too thin and seep into connectors)
Cable bleed: each side of cable shielding should be properly sealed.
liquids feed through cable shielding and might cause huge issues.
Enclosure: If heat is a problem typically employing a metal finned enclosure for the device can wick away enough heat.
If power usage isn't any issue, you can use a TEC to assist.
When waterproofing, always use the right kind of sealant, some sealants release vapor that will corrode copper over time.
Also, use marine-grade screws in field if you do not wish to own to use a drill to re-open it later.
Connectors: we have a tendency to had heaps of joy with the Bulgin Buccaneer vary.
They aren't good in high apace dynamical temperature setting tho', we have a tendency to had to pot them when installation for best results.