Homemade stackable shield for DS1337+, DS1624 and AT24C1024B (RTC, temp & mem)

Overall a Very nice board and obviously you've practiced a bit... Good level soldering and at the right temperature too. All your joints are consistent in appearance, properly 'filleted' and of lead solder too.
Personally I won't use anything but my 60/40 solder. I have never used a lot of solder. I personally think that perhaps I've really used 2 pounds of solder in all the years I've been soldering. I bought a half pound of the tin stuff, cost me $20+ dollars... and I tossed the whole roll, I have Never worked with solder as bad as that... I thought I was trying to solder galvanized iron... I can see it's uses but not in the home.
One small question first though, Why not put the crystal down close to the pc board and perhaps affix it to the board. The clock will be most accurate over a long term basis if the temperature of the crystal is controlled and the simplest method is to tie the crystal case to the thermal mass of the PCB.

  1. Why Paper or phenolic PCB material... Certainly not for any of it's outstanding physical attributes like poor strength, poor heat resistance... De-lam's easily and after all that the material is hygroscopic and a health hazard if burned which includes while drilling it. FR4 or fiberglass has one drawback and that is that protective gear should be worn while working with which includes cutting or drilling or especially sanding or filing of the pc-board must be done while wearing a mask and goggles, drilling goggles and a painters mask are all the safety equipment required. It is very hazardous to burn FR4 laminate But it is very hard to do... too.
    Be very proud of that board, You DID an EXCELLENT Job. It alone would have gained you a job at anyplace I worked at.

Bob