My code is working and I am using LEDs on pins 5, 6, A2, and A3 and the buzzer on pin 7, which is how the LEDs and buzzer are connected as delivered on the board.
Now I'm ready to plan my sewing pattern and break the board apart.
I'm thinking that I need to sew/connect the + side of LED 5 to the Lilypad petal pin marked 5... and the + side of LED 6 to the Lilypad petal pin marked 6...and so on. With the - side sewn/connected to the - petal on the Lilypad.
The problem is that for buzzer pin 7 -- I don't see a Lilypad petal pin marked with a 7.
Am I being too literal in thinking that these pin numbers need to align one-to-one like this? :o
If there's no Lilypad petal pin marked with a 7 - which pin am I supposed to sew it to on the Lilypad? Or does the buzzer just need to be connected to the + and - petals on the Lilypad?
But if so - why did I program it as pin 7? Without a corresponding pin 7 on the Lilypad - how will the buzzer know what to do?
jhaaaa:
The problem is that for buzzer pin 7 -- I don't see a Lilypad petal pin marked with a 7.
Unless you want to do some micro soldering, once you break the LilyPad off the only pins you can use are the ones connected to the "petals": 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, A2, A3, A4, A5.
Since you're not using pins 9, 10, or 11 you can use one of those instead. You just need to change your sketch accordingly. You can even use pins A4 or A5 if you like as those can be used as digital pins as well as analog pins.
jhaaaa:
Am I being too literal in thinking that these pin numbers need to align one-to-one like this? :o
Yes. In this case there's no magic about pin 7. You just need to use any available digital pin.
jhaaaa:
But if so - why did I program it as pin 7?
There are less "petals" on the LilyPad than there are accessories in the ProtoSnap kit. However, the microcontroller on the LilyPad has more pins than there are "petals" on the LilyPad. So they decided to route some of those unused pins out to the ProtoSnap accessories.
Wow - thank you for such a clear and thorough reply! I get it... I think a part of what misled me is the idea that you should do all of your programming before breaking the Protosnap apart. Before breaking it apart, the program uses pin 7 b/c that is how the board is hard-wired. But after you break it apart - you need to reprogram pin 7 to use pin 9, as you suggest or any other available pin. I just bought a bunch of alligator clip test leads to be able to do this.
All is right in the world now -- thank you again for clarifying!
