logic in the code should be the same..no? both common anode leds? I am using internal pull-up resistors on those pins.
Internal pullup? That is only for input pinmode, it has no effect when using a pin as an output.
3.) I think your saying that the 1k resistor value between the transistor and Arduino pin is too high? lor is so I get more/full saturate of the gate, allowing the led to get full (constant) current? suggested value to use?
Yes, too high. (5V - 0.7VBE)/1k = 4.3mA. The practical maximum current from an Arduino pin is 20mA, that is about 1/16 of 320mA, so let's use roughly that. (5V - 0.7VBE)/0.02A = 215 ohms, so closest standard value is 220 ohms.
Im not following on how to measure the current.. (sorry).. and I dont have any LARGE resistors like that around (no 1-2 watt fattys) just regular old SMD and through hole resistors.. of 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 watt..etc..
Because it is a constant current regulator, you could put a much lower value resistor in there to test it. It will then drop a lot less voltage across the resistor, therefore require a smaller lower wattage resistor. If you have a 0.1 ohm resistor, 320mA will read 32mV dropped across it, and that is only about 10mW (0.32A x 0.032V = 0.01024W) so even a 1/8W resistor will work.
4.) Use a resistor when? you mean when 'testing' the LED on my PSU? I just cranked the voltage down to +3.3v.. and did a quick TAP on the leads.. to ensure it was working/is bright..
no resistor.. (I dont recall if I dialed down the AMPs or not? usually it at 1A or so)
That is a horribly, horribly bad idea. LEDs are not light bulbs. Damage can be done to them in a fraction of a second. The LED you are using is going to be more tolerant of 1A, being rated at 1/3 of that, but that depends on whether or not you limited the current.
One of my coworkers, who (no offense to him) has forgotten nearly everything he's learned through disuse, made a 6x6 matrix of LEDs scavenged from broken equipment, in order to make a cable tester. He tested each one of these tiny LEDs on a 3.6V lithium ion battery, for "just a second". Then installed them. When I heard this, I wired up a battery with a resistor, showed him it working with a good LED, then left him to retest all his LEDs.
They were all damaged. Some were just dead, the rest were dim and orangish.
As for the Red LED being on all the time, I suspect that there is some fault in the circuit. A shorted trace, a bad transistor... What happens if you disconnect only the red LED? Do any of the other LEDs light?
What is the voltage on the collectors of all the transistors when it is connected? On the bases?
With the LEDs, Arduino, and battery disconnected, put your meter on Diode Check and confirm that you have the correct diode drops in the correct direction. Confirm that the CE connection reads as an Open.
A page on how an LM317 works when wired as a current regulator:
http://theparanoidtroll.com/electronics/primers-and-tutorials/other/constant-current-sourceload-lm317/