Hi everyone,
I currently have a 12VDC fail safe door strike which i would like to wire to my arduino. From my research i require a 12v relay but i have no idea how to set this sort of circuit up with another 12v power source to power the doorstrike. Could anyone help me with this? and maybe draw a schematic for the circuit which I could follow?
Any help is appreciated. Regards,
Mumbus12
More info on my project: I would like to control my door strike remotely via Bluetooth modules (HC-05 and HC-06) I am connecting the doorstrike to the HC-06 Module which is set up as below:
I am really new to arduino and have no idea what this means. I can understand more simpler cirucits, so this might need a little bit more expaining. Thanks for taking time out to help me.
A MOSFET uses a small signal of voltage to change the state of the device.
by sending a 5 volt signal to the GATE, you allow the device to pass power.
as shown, the FET is an 'N' channel which means it MUST be between your device and ground.
your device gets connected to the 12 DC + connection.
your device 12V - connectes to the FET
the FET connects to ground.
the MOSFET is a DC only device, never AC
if you were to use a LOGIC LEVEL device such as a IRL540 (the L stands for logic level)
You could put a voltage from a pin to the GATE.
you need to get a device, read the data sheet and connect as per the data sheet and the above schematic.
Note that the diode can be any diode but is required.
The resistors laid out are good, you could get away with a 100 ohm or a 330 ohm or some such.
remember, 2 resistors of 330 ohm with ends twisted together (parallel) would deliver half of the listed resistance.
you could use a Transistor, but would need a slightly different circuit.
How would this circuit look when made? I know you might not have a door strike but i would just like to see something i can folllow. And for the MOSFET does it have to have an L? The only one my local electrical store sells is IRF540N, would this suffice or do I need to look elsewhere.
Thank you so much for your help!
Regards,
Mumbus12
Yes, the "L" is necessary. You may get the "N" version to work adequately well, but it won't be reliable and may be burned out the first time you use it.
Start looking for online stores. The variety of electronic components available is much larger than any physical store can hold.
+12 on the control side of the relay board will almost certainly have damaged the output side of the opto-couplers on the trigger inputs.
Fingers crossed they are over-rated, and current listed within spec.
The 5v relays woukd have given a mighty 'click' when they pull in!
mumbus12:
whats under the purple line??? And thanks for the diagram it helped me heaps!!!
It gets really scary when a newby claims to understand a Fritzing better than a simple, four-component MOSFET circuit.
And indeed it seems the Fritzing is wrong. They're notoriously hard to read and figure out (the only thing that goes for them is that they're rather pretty - like a piece of art, and just as hard to understand what the maker wants with it), making such mistakes really hard to spot.
The control side (driver electronics & relay coil) is normally operating at 5V. Supplying 12V may cause the magic smoke to escape, and maybe even have the thing turn into a dragon (spewing fire) if your power supply is strong enough.
With you being the only one having access to both your hardware and software that's going to be you to find out.
Start by grabbing your multimeter and checking whether contacts are good, whether the pin is going high and low (do a Blink on that pin), whether the transistor switches the gate level, whether the MOSFET switches at all...
my apologies! meant to insert this module picture instead. Sorry