Your latest purchase

Gots me some 24mm iko linear rail. I love the smell of linear rail in the morning.

Since about 2 months, I am the proud owner of this machine:

Siglent SDS1204X/E

It is a wonderful instrument and I am totally unworthy of it.
I'm learning that a good scope can be a real eye-opener as to whats going on inside a circuit.
Also love how you can set up triggers to capture rare glitches.

TomGeorge:
This acrylic UNO base and protoboard to fit, ebay.

Do you mean that you paid money for a piece of plastic that you can glue an Uno and a Breadboard onto.

+1 to the marketing guys :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

...R

Robin2:
Do you mean that you paid money for a piece of plastic that you can glue an Uno and a Breadboard onto.

+1 to the marketing guys :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

...R

It comes with screws and spacers and stick on feet.
$1.93 each.
Cost me more to drive around and buy the parts.
Tom... :slight_smile:

TomGeorge:
Hi,
This acrylic UNO base and protoboard to fit, ebay.

Heh I just did the same thing a month ago

Missing MPU at the moment, the one I was using for breadboard mysteriously stopped working so I grabbed this one after uploading sketch.

wilykat:
Heh I just did the same thing a month ago

I have sorted my jumper wires out, so I have a container with short wires and the next size up that fit just right to the assembly.
Tom... :slight_smile:

wilykat:
Heh I just did the same thing a month ago

Missing MPU at the moment, the one I was using for breadboard mysteriously stopped working so I grabbed this one after uploading sketch.

Could it have been because of a loose breadboard connection?

You can order a bootloaded 328P and some blanks to bootload yourself.

GoForSmoke:
You can order a bootloaded 328P and some blanks to bootload yourself.

I have about 20 spares, I just need to get them out, have bootloader installed, and inserted back in the UNO board.

Hi,
I bought a couple of these ESP32 Devkit V1 boards.


Have got one operating in Cayenne, I've made a dashboard to observe.
This link will get you to it.

https://cayenne.mydevices.com/shared/5b3aeaa9c43373181503a6ed


Its just a basic;
Temperature, Humidity using DHT11
Pressure using a BMP085 that has bug that occurs when the environment gets to cold.
Room Light level is just an LDR.

The counter just counts the number of transmissions since turn-on.
The Packet Intervals is the time between transmission data bursts.

I have my own personal dashboard with some LED controls and servo control sliders on it.
I might put a LED control button on it, just to see who wants to play. :slight_smile:

I have it here at home and I take it to work and plug it back in so the data will not always be continuous.

Tom... :slight_smile:

Get some hall effect sensors and make yourself a anemometer

Qdeathstar:
Get some hall effect sensors and make yourself a anemometer

Yes, I could, I've got three identical deodorant spray can lids for the cups. :o :o
The ESP32 even has a Hall Effect device fitted inside the wroom package.

Tom... :slight_smile:

Arduino-like board with ZIF socket, AVR power that can be disconnected separately from the USB port, and easily disabled auto-reset. It's mostly for testing Optiboot, especially WRT the issues that have been outstanding WRT reset-cause and MCUSR... It's also got footprints for tiny84x and tiny1634, and only a couple of minor bugs.

(I really like those CH340E USB modules!)
(Oh yeah; it's also entirely Through-hole, and mostly single-sided. The SMT footprints and "top layer other than things that could be jumpers" only got added after I realized that I was going to be lazy and send the board off to OSHPark instead of getting the LPKF working...)

I like the Attiny1634. It is almost as good as an Atmega 328 but in a small SOIC package that is still big enough for hand-soldering - unlike the SMD versions of the 328.

However it seems to me the size value would be lost on a PCB designed for an DIP version of a 328 ?

...R

I like the Attiny1634.
:
However it seems to me the size value would be lost on a PCB designed for an DIP version of a 328 ?

Yes. In this case, the 1634 footprint is essentially ONLY useful for testing bootloaders...

westfw:
Arduino-like board with ZIF socket, AVR power that can be disconnected separately from the USB port, and easily disabled auto-reset. It's mostly for testing Optiboot, especially WRT the issues that have been outstanding WRT reset-cause and MCUSR... It's also got footprints for tiny84x and tiny1634, and only a couple of minor bugs.

(I really like those CH340E USB modules!)
(Oh yeah; it's also entirely Through-hole, and mostly single-sided. The SMT footprints and "top layer other than things that could be jumpers" only got added after I realized that I was going to be lazy and send the board off to OSHPark instead of getting the LPKF working...)

Looks great!

Do you have a link where you got your driver for the CH340E.

Is that a self contained module i.e. CH340E and USB connector? Link?

What’s the yellow wire?

Do you have a link where you got your driver for the CH340E.

I've been getting them direct from USB转串口芯片 CH340 - 南京沁恒微电子股份有限公司 for my Mac.
Recent W10 tests seemed to show no driver needed. ?

Is that a self contained module i.e. CH340E and USB connector? Link?
What's the yellow wire?

Yep. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1PCS-CH340E-USB-to-TTL-Serial-Converter-5V-3-3V-Universal-Not-need-switching-Model-BTE17/213957_32821571106.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.4c137610DKxfYb
I mount the module "upside down" to provide some additional physical security for the microUSB connector. The yellow wire just goes through the mounting holes and is soldered on the back...
(One thing "wrong" with this module is that there's no copper around the mounting holes, so you can't solder pins for physical support.)

westfw:
I've been getting them direct from http://www.wch.cn/products/CH340.html for my Mac.
Recent W10 tests seemed to show no driver needed. ?

Yep. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1PCS-CH340E-USB-to-TTL-Serial-Converter-5V-3-3V-Universal-Not-need-switching-Model-BTE17/213957_32821571106.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.4c137610DKxfYb
I mount the module "upside down" to provide some additional physical security for the microUSB connector. The yellow wire just goes through the mounting holes and is soldered on the back...
(One thing "wrong" with this module is that there's no copper around the mounting holes, so you can't solder pins for physical support.)

Thank you for the info.

If you can drill the holes to 3mm diameter, you could press fit 3.2mm brass inserts then solder the inserts to the foil around the enlarged holes.
However, looks like the holes are quite close to the board edges.

Maybe PCB eyelets could be riveted in the holes, solder to the eyelets.

Own designed PCB (my first, from a shop as opposed to home-CNC'ed) - attached

/Msquare

I bought a similar one a while back.

This one looks okay but low amperage though.

Check PDF for data. 0-24@0-1amp 0-24@0-1amp 5@2amp

$70.88 USD

http://www.newark.com/tenma/72-8335a/power-supply-3ch-24v-2a-adjustable/dp/47X1648?ost=72-8335A&ddkey=http%3Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fsearch

3dprinter:
Own designed PCB (my first, from a shop as opposed to home-CNC'ed) - attached

/Msquare

What does it do? Level shifter?