How to use arduino in rough enviorment ?

I am planning to use Arduino and RasberryPi for my old but rebuild 23.000 pounds wheel loader. The first part of the project is to add a display for all machine data like pressure and temperatures. I do have all sensors for this and it works in the "lab".

So now how can I put this on the machine which works in mud and rain with strong vibration while working ? I doubt I can use a closed case due to heat, but maybe I can with a big heat sink ?

Also the cables I use now to connect the pins will not survive a harsh environment. Are there any special plugs to connect the arduino pins to preferable a board which providers a a kind of loop tib terminal/cable clamp ?

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While I haven't ruggedized an arduino, I used to work in a telemetry company and have ruggedized bespoke integrated kit for use in hazardous + very rough conditions, and these few tips from past experience came to mind.

Potting: once your board is tested, put it in a small appropriately sized tray and fill with potting epoxy. for bench prototyping, at a pinch you can use candle wax (but NOT for field, heat can cause wax to vaporize and become fire risk). pro tip: remember that the viscosity of your potting compound changes with local ambient temperature, so always test one board before doing a batch or you may wreck a lot of kit (epoxy will either not fill into all areas, or will be too thin and seep into connectors)

Cable bleed: both sides of cable shielding must be properly sealed. liquids seep through cable shielding and can cause big problems.

Enclosure: If heat is an issue usually using a metal finned enclosure for the device will wick away enough heat. If power usage is no issue, you can use a TEC to assist. When sealing, always use the right kind of sealant, some sealants release vapor that will corrode copper over time. Also, use marine-grade screws in field if you don't want to have to use a drill to re-open it later.

Connectors: we had a lot of joy with the Bulgin Buccaneer range. They aren't perfect in high pressure rapidly changing temperature environment though, we had to pot them after installation for best results.

Pot the whole thing into a big lump of silicone glue.

I made boards with db15 connector and thermally conductive 2-part epoxy. We did a lot of boards, had bigger bottles:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mg-chemicals/832TC-450ML/473-1089-ND/655660
Needed 2 hour bake in a low temp oven to cure it, or wait a really long time. Maybe we hadn't stirred both parts well enough before mixing together and pouring into a mold with the card. We were doing 12 at a time in square muffin pans.

Selected all high temperature range parts, including the 328, rated to 105C or higher
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/integrated-circuits-ics/embedded-microcontrollers/685?k=atmega328&k=&pkeyword=atmega328&pv252=774&FV=ffe002ad&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25
Had to seal around the bottom of the connector with bead of silicon before potting to keep the potting from seeping up into the bottom of the connector. Learned that the hard way.

Can go higher temp on the 328, may have to wait longer to get them
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATMEGA328P-15MZ/1611-ATMEGA328P-15MZCT-ND/6832161

Awesome, thanks for your suggestions, will test it out :slight_smile:

While i have never rugged AN arduino, I wont to add a measurement company and have ruggedized tailored integrated kit to be used in unsafe + terribly rough conditions, and these
few tips from past experience came to mind.
Potting: once your board is tested, place it in a very little fittingly sized receptacle and fill with potting epoxy.
for bench prototyping, at a pinch you can use candle wax (but NOT for field, heat can cause wax to vaporize and become fire risk).
pro tip: bear in mind that the consistency of your potting compound changes with native close temperature, so always test one board before doing a batch or you may wreck a
lot of kit (epoxy can either not fill into all areas, or will be too thin and seep into connectors)

Cable bleed: each side of cable shielding should be properly sealed.
liquids feed through cable shielding and might cause huge issues.

Enclosure: If heat is a problem typically employing a metal finned enclosure for the device can wick away enough heat.
If power usage isn't any issue, you can use a TEC to assist.
When waterproofing, always use the right kind of sealant, some sealants release vapor that will corrode copper over time.
Also, use marine-grade screws in field if you do not wish to own to use a drill to re-open it later.

Connectors: we have a tendency to had heaps of joy with the Bulgin Buccaneer vary.
They aren't good in high apace dynamical temperature setting tho', we have a tendency to had to pot them when installation for best results.

The OP left in 2017 and has never been back to post a response, so I suspect he will not see your posting.

Paul