I will have to power a project which consists in many modules and which will have to deal with many voltages (12V, 9V, 5V and 3.3V).
I am planning to hook up the 12V using a female connector (matching the power supply).
The main module consists of basically voltage regulators. Now What is a good way to transport all of the different voltages to the various modules?
I mean: they are 20-80cm apart and each module should receive all of the different supplies (plus GND).
Each module will be soldered separately.
Looking onto the internet I am a bit confused on which connector to use and how to use my cables with them. Also while soldering is ok, I would prefer (if possible) a solderless solution.
I hope I stated the problem correctly,
thanks for reading.
There are lots of different types of connectors. Which is best for you depends on a whole lot of details that you've left out. Nobody will be able to tell you which is best from such a vague description of the project. Certainly a google search would turn up the most common types and at least give you a place to start.
Try to figure out how much current each voltage rail will have to deliver.
Next, consider if you have any space restrictions.
Finally, how high is your budget and how many connectors will you need in your project.
The answers to those questions would probably be a good first step.
Are all the power supplies in one enclosure/on one board? if so I would look at the total number of power conductors required (including Ground) and then find a suitable cable that has at least that number of cores, heavy enough to handle the highest current without unacceptable volt drop across the maximum length of cable run. Once you have your loom cable designed you can then determine whether you put one connector on each end and split source and output within the device or individual connectors for each voltage. only then can you start determining what connectors to use, there are hundreds of choices available online from single pin to multiple pin keyed for polarity, weatherproof etc.
Delta_G:
You really can't imagine anything you could say that could bring me closer to knowing what the hell you are talking about building? Seriously?
I simply don't know what can be considered useful for the power connector choice.
Anyway, most of the modules are simply done using a 555 in monostable configuration, triggered from an arduino (reading an RFID). Using mosfets as switches, the 555 pulse "powers" then a motor and a set of LEDs.
The main problem is that I have many modules, and have to transport power to each of them. Some will use 9V motors and some 12V.
Also, only 1 module will be active at a time (depending on the RFID read). All of this will be indoors.
As far as space restrictions go, since this will be mounted below a 1x2 meters board, I think that space is more of a pain than a restriction.
I hope this is helpful, in the meantime thanks for your patience
ilfuria:
I simply don't know what can be considered useful for the power connector choice.
Fine. Then come on out with lots of details then. Something to the effect of:
I am building an automatic toilet lid closer. My wife beats me when I leave the seat up so I build this contraption to close the seat. It has a smell sensor to detect if I have just gone poo and a servo that closes the lid. The servo is a towerpro sg-60 servo and I am powering it with 6V. Here is a picture of a circuit diagram I drew. (attach a pic) Here is a picture of the whole thing in action (another pic). The whole thing needs to be water proof as I plan to keep it in the tank of the toilet.
Make sense now? I don't need you to answer your own question, but you have to give me some way to envision what the hell we're talking about. As it stands I don't even know if this is something hand-held and small that we need to be talking about micro-molex connectors or if it is something the size of a car and needs big automotive connectors. You gotta give me SOMETHING. Tell me ANY FREAKING THING about this project.
Can you not imagine how hard it is for you to pick out connectors if you don't even have the first clue what the thing is that you're building?
One fundamental rule for connectors is: if it has power to any pin, the connector must be female to protect the powered pins from inadvertent contact and shorting.
separate wires, as much as possible - better bind then than scratching head which is which, explicitly label in the prototype phase ("5 V", "3.3V") - maybe is old-fashioned but I found it useful (in my case)
separate function = separate module = separate wire segment
one voltage = one color
from one module to another= connectors
(module for me is a bunch of components that perform a distinct function)
About the connectors:
the best one is the one I can find on shelve :-))
depends on the phase: desk prototype = breadboard, independent prototype = morsettes is first choice, final prototype = barrel connectors (to ensure portability), morsettes (the simplest = the best), everything goes - according to the objective and circumstances of the connection (permanent or temporary, price etc.).
Again, this is me and the above are for my projects, that are educative/demo and focused on simple design. No RF (so far), no complex sensors network, no advanced robotics.
+++
I found that a clear definition of the scope of work means half of the difficulties is gone.
It is not that easy to scope the work and set the objective. But everything goes up from the objectives, so in my opinion is worth spending time to do it.
Some clues (again from my experience which does not necessarily fit your work, because I do not know what exactly are you building):
-just because Arduino is there, it does not mean that everything has to be solved by Arduino - so no need to find out how to connect a bunch of wires to do something that is not needed in the first place
many connections = many problems
nice to plan and design, but real (hobby) world is full of demons that modify the characteristics comparing to the official DS, make bad connections and drain out the batteries without warning
The world of connectors is immense. In my humble opinion, going for cheapest and simplest - as a first stage -is maybe a wise way to proceed. If the chosen connector does not do the job, then mount another type.
@OP,
Your OP lacks the essential details.
You need to list the maximum load current for each of the voltages.
Given that information, essentially any connector with contacts rated for those voltages will work.
Selecting connectors is always painful in my experience, and making up cables is even worse.
Try to enumerate requirements, like:
keyed or not (ie does it matter if the connector can physically go in the wrong way?)
latching (ie doesn't pull out easily)
solder/crimp/IDE
and of course minimum current wire by wire
cheap
commonly available
gold-plated
I'd recommend IDE ribbon for ease of making (but not cheap) - you can use multiple wires
to increase current handling. IDE connectors also work nicely in tri-pad prototype boards.
Soldered connectors and crimped take hours to make in quantity, whereas IDE cables are
quick.
You can get cheap premade crimped hookup wire, but most of it is not capable of handling high current.
What do you mean by "The main module consists of basically voltage regulators"? If you are using regular linear voltage regulators to get the lower voltages the amount current your modules can sink will be limited - unless you want your voltage regulators to get very hot.
If you have a switch mode power supply set up for each voltage then you may be OK.
You need to figure out how much current is drawn from each voltage supply. If you are drawing more than a few hundreds milliamps in total you most likely need to redesign your setup.
Depending on the current I would aim for a setup where I would transfer only 12 V and 5 V from a switch mode power supply and each module could then make up the 9 V and 3.3 V using a linear voltage regulator.
Without knowing more about your specs I would look at these connectors:
"These connectors are environmentally resistant, general duty circular multi-pin connectors designed for harsh conditions. They meet the Military Specification for the connection of electrical systems and electronic devices in military and commercial aircraft": http://www.amerline.com/Connectors.html
...but you may be able to get away with using something cheaper
