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Topic: Smd component soldering  (Read 3456 times) previous topic - next topic

Grumpy_Mike

GrumpyMike, so in post #18, when a rail connects two components and you want to use the rest of the rail for something else, you strip off the copper?  Is that what the greyed out square shapes are?
Yes they are breaks in the copper. Look at the previous photo to see them. I make them using a scalpel, rest it on the side of the hole and make a small nick. Then turn the board over and make a nick on the other side of the hole and the copper between the two nicks is removed. Repeat this for the copper on the other side of the hole for a minimum break that could be left or bridged by a surface mount component like a resistor.

I did this video to illustrate how to solder a surface mount light sensor:-
https://vimeo.com/138562025
For this project:-
https://vimeo.com/142866214
But it is not an Arduino project.

Marciokoko

You make it look so easy.  How thick is the tip of your iron?  I measured mine at 1mm.

Boardburner2

You make it look so easy.  How thick is the tip of your iron?  I measured mine at 1mm.
There is a tool for breaking the tracks, basically an 1/8 in drill in a handle.

If your bit is small it may not get heat in fast enough especially if its a long thin one.

Bit selection can make a difference with small stuff.

Strip board can adsorb quite a lot of heat, more so than a PCB.


larryd

No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

larryd

Quote
There is a tool for breaking the tracks, basically an 1/8 in drill in a handle.
http://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/stripboard-cutters/0543535/
No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

Boardburner2

#35
Jan 25, 2016, 02:35 am Last Edit: Jan 25, 2016, 02:37 am by Boardburner2
That's the one , mine cost 2 quid though.

About 20 yrs ago and still works.

larryd

#36
Jan 25, 2016, 04:28 am Last Edit: Jan 25, 2016, 04:46 am by LarryD
This might stir the pot:
https://aa7ee.wordpress.com/tag/wbr-regen/



Also


.
No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

Marciokoko

Cool...makes me want to post my acrylic board with super glued wire :-)

Grumpy_Mike

You make it look so easy.  How thick is the tip of your iron?  I measured mine at 1mm.
That one started life at 0.8mm
http://uk.farnell.com/weller/pt-p8/tip-conical-0-8mm/dp/416708

There is a tool for breaking the tracks, basically an 1/8 in drill in a handle.
True, sometimes called a spot face cutter.
However there are two problems with it:-
1) They often leave a very thin, almost invisible to see without magnification, strip of copper on one side.
2) They produce a gap which is too big to span with a surface mount resistor.

Quote
f your bit is small it may not get heat in fast enough especially if its a long thin one.
That depends entirely on the iron behind it. The Wella I use is a curie point magnetically controlled 40W iron, so it does not over heat and can supply all the heat you need into a copper strip despite the shape being long and thin.

@LarryD - Very nice construction there.

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