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Topic: Buying Kits (Read 3770 times) previous topic - next topic

pegwatcher

LDRs (light dependent resistors) and thermistors are also fun to experiment/play with.
I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing.

pegwatcher

Quote
Just out of interest I went for a look... amazed to see the first component under their best sellers: the 555!
Another very versatile and fun chip is the LM567 PLL (phase locked loop)
I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing.

pegwatcher

Tayda Electronics also provides data sheets online for many components, such as transistors and integrated circuits.
I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing.

JimboZA

fun chip is the LM567 PLL (phase locked loop)
I will have to google "1001 fun things to do with your LM567 over Easter weekend"  :)
Johannesburg hams call me: ZS6JMB on Highveld rep 145.7875 (-600 & 88.5 tone)
Dr Perry Cox: "Help me to help you, help me to help you...."
Your answer may already be here: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=384198.0

pegwatcher

Quote
I will have to google "1001 fun things to do with your LM567 over Easter weekend"
I don't think you will get nearly as many hits as you would with the 555 but after reading the datasheet use your imagination..
I'm not a complete idiot. Some parts are missing.

raschemmel

#35
Mar 25, 2016, 09:42 am Last Edit: Mar 25, 2016, 07:43 pm by raschemmel Reason: C
You'll need a LOT of those 555s.  You'll need  some 20 guage & 22 guage SOLID copper wire for breadboarding and 22 guage STRANDED WHITE wire to solder to the solid copper wire to extend the wire to the controller box where it connects to the leds and pots.  Make sure you always build the box FIRST, THEN add the solid wire to the ends of the white stranded wires ( which, by the way , are ALL PRECUT to the SAME length. You'll need at LEAST  100 red leds.


Or, if you want to take all the fun out of it you can just get an I/O expander and use an arduino


(6 4-channel sequencers , all set to different speeds, with the fastest at one end and the slowest at the closest end, (bi-directional, with option to illuminate all 16 ring lights simultaneously for the "pulsing" effect).

FYI,
for a magnification factor of 10 (10x3 ft = 30 feet), subtract the Max size from the Min size to get the size  increase
size  increase = 30-3 = 27 feet

subtract the target # of rings from the initial # of rings to get the # of size increases:

# of size increase = 6 rings - 1 ring = 5 size increases

Divide size increase by # of size increases to get the size increase in feet

size increase in feet = size increase/# of size increases

27 feet / 5 size increases = 5.4 feet

Add size increase in feet to initial ring size to get next ring size:

3 + 5.4 feet = 8.4 feet

and so on

3rd ring = 8.4 feet + 5.4 feet = 13.8 feet

ring 4 = 13.8+5.4= 19.2 feet

ring 5 = 19.2 feet+5.4 = 24.6 feet

ring 6 = 24.6 feet+5.4 =   30 feet

H/W/Software Functions Required

24 digital I/O OUTPUTS (6 rings x 4 channels/ring = 24 channels

6 4-channel groups
Each ring has 16 lights around the outer perimeter.
These lights are separated into 4 groups of opposing 4 lights
(draw a pie. Cut the pie into 16 pieces (make 4 opposing pieces, then split those 4
;ieces, then split those 4 pieces. # them 1 to 16)

If you start at the bottom , going CW,
1 opposes 9
2 opposes 10
and so on,
Thus
channel -1 = segments 1,9,5 & 13
           2 =     "          2, 10, 6 & 14
           3 =     "          3,11,7, & 15
           4 =     "           4 .12.8. & 16

Sequencing channels 1,2,3, 4, in that order creates POV effect of CW rotation.


Sequence speed should create illusion of deceleration.
ie: delay between most distance rings 5 & 6 is less than delay between 5 & 4
and less between 4 & 3 and so on so saucer appears to move fast but decelerate.

Rotation speed is likewise reduced exponentially  from ring 6 to ring 1 (6 being smallest, 1 being largest)

Since most people don't weld and can't get custom neon, you can use multiple bright leds for each of the 16 segments in a ring, grouped in groups of 4 channels
16 segments/ 4 channels = 4 opposing segments per channel.
(1 & 3, 2& 4) so when the channels are sequenced , it looks like it's rotating.



;D
Arduino UNOs, Pro-Minis, ATMega328, ATtiny85, LCDs, MCP4162, keypads,<br />DS18B20s,74c922,nRF24L01, RS232, SD card, RC fixed wing, quadcopter

adele

I have no idea what is going on.

raschemmel

Sorry, I wasn't trying to hijack your thread. I was actually just filling in some blanks about the lighting controller shown in Reply#9.
Arduino UNOs, Pro-Minis, ATMega328, ATtiny85, LCDs, MCP4162, keypads,<br />DS18B20s,74c922,nRF24L01, RS232, SD card, RC fixed wing, quadcopter

JimboZA

I have no idea what is going on.
Don't worry about it: just raschemmel having some kind of unrelated tangential discussion with himself. Or something. Who knows?

Not a bad idea to play with the 555 chip though: simple to use and can do all sorts of blinky type things.
Johannesburg hams call me: ZS6JMB on Highveld rep 145.7875 (-600 & 88.5 tone)
Dr Perry Cox: "Help me to help you, help me to help you...."
Your answer may already be here: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=384198.0

larryd

I thought it may have been bad drugs ;)
No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

adele

I can only find the 22pF 50V in ceramic. So I guess that is what I was supposed to get?

Thanks.

JimboZA

Btw this a handy way to get resistors, including 0 ohm ones.....
Johannesburg hams call me: ZS6JMB on Highveld rep 145.7875 (-600 & 88.5 tone)
Dr Perry Cox: "Help me to help you, help me to help you...."
Your answer may already be here: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=384198.0

larryd

No technical PMs.
The last thing you did is where you should start looking.

adele

Yea but I am trying to make my own kit. Its confusing because all of the kits I have found so far have different values in them. I was thinking there would be some standard value. I was going to go with the values that CrossRoads suggested on the first page. I think those were ok.

JimboZA

Yea but I am trying to make my own kit.
Don't forget the 0 ohm ones though....yes, they really do make 0 ohm resistors.

Johannesburg hams call me: ZS6JMB on Highveld rep 145.7875 (-600 & 88.5 tone)
Dr Perry Cox: "Help me to help you, help me to help you...."
Your answer may already be here: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=384198.0

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