The advantage for 2. may dim better, but seems more difficult to build.
If I can find the right circuit or diagram, I could build boards with 8 individual outputs, maybe where I can adjust V and A to adapt the output to different LED Wattage.
I opened a few drivers, and measured the V; 3W LED runs on 9.5V, and a 5W runs on 18V. It must have something to do how these LED lights are wired internally.
Maybe some DMX controller could drive this???
Any hints, comments appreciated. Thanks.
And ethernet is cool but it's not simple nor energy efficient...
do you mean every rooms still has a single, non-domotics light?rom the smart aspect...
I would hate it if I need to get my phone out of my pocket every time I just want to
drivers, the PT4115 is a cool driver
dimming, keep in mind our eyes are not linear.
I faced the same problems when I wanted to change the lighting in my basement/workshop.
Why was the modification for the 12W LEDs required?I rather use 12W than having to go to lower watt LEDs. In fact I am aiming to use three different Watt LEDs, and distribute these like bubbles in soda; meaning in (seemingly) a random size random location on the ceiling. "Seemingly" because the bigger ones will sit where needed, while the smaller ones fill in.
Ethernet is a must, as I have everything wired... as I am wired and do not like radiation in my house...
This is a compromise for all the nay sayers who think we need a light switch... however, I started to like the idea for two reasons:1. Any stranger / visitor can operate a light switch2. it provides a "housing" for my electronics I had to put somewhere; and this type of light fitting (so not to everyone's taste) is a nice 'case' to house my electronics/sensors.
voice control will follow later...
Lights go on based on presence and by ambient lighting...
There seems to be an advantage for using the same wattage, but I can see different, say, 16-port boards (when using the PCA9685 -- which I would use too), each covering a different LED power consumption range.
@Wawa, apart from 24V supplies being more widely available, is the efficiency that much better by dropping less? After all the PT4115 is a pretty efficient switch mode driver overall.
What I do find stupid in a smart home is to have non-smart lights mixed in...
48volt supply, is not a good match for <12watt downlights.
Since I have no issue with not dimming each individual light, I can put e.g. 2 x 6W in series.I can see myself settling on 48V
LDL-H 12/18W on 48V