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Topic: ROM-Reader for Super Nintendo / Super Famicom Game Cartridges (Read 370648 times) previous topic - next topic

skaman

The BUNG Doctor GB carts come in three sizes - 4M, 16M, and 64M.   

The carts use:
"DA46" - Winbond 4M Flash 29C040
"C2F1" - Macronix 16M Flash MX29F1610
"8915" - Intel 64M StrataFlash 28F640J5
"8917" - Intel 64M StrataFlash 28F640J3A



sanni

Curious, this looks like a really cool project, but what is the point of ROM dumping game carts? Is it simply to back-up games in case they get lost or can you use the data to port the games to other consoles (i.e. PC)?
The main reason for me was getting the save games off the game cartridges because some are battery-backed and if the battery runs out your save is gone. And since you can spend quite some time in the big SNES RPGs a lost save game would hurt.

Ofc the other way around works too. Like I got my childhood friend a used copy of Goldeneye 64 because we played it a lot as kids but the game didn't have everything unlocked. So instead of spending all the time to actually play through the game again I downloaded a save from the internet and copied it to the cartridge.

Also after dumping more and more game ROMs people have found out that the ROMs available on the internet were not all correctly dumped in the 90s and a lot of the games were never dumped. So there is also the aspect of preservation and validation.

And since you can use those ROMs to play your games on emulators or with flash carts like the Everdrive series there is also the aspect of legality. Dumping and playing your own games is allowed, downloading games from the internet, even if you own them, is not.

That being said this project has developed much further than simple ROM dumping since it can now also program a select few cartridges with new games. As an example it is a special feeling when you can play the recently released Super Mario 64 Splitscreen Coop ROM hack on a real cartridge on a real N64, it makes it more authentic.

And then lastly ofc it's a hobby. Figuring out how to write code to dump cartridges is actually quite fun and challenging. It's like a puzzle game.

dustytrash

How could I connect a MicroSD adapter?

The pins don't line up right: https://imgur.com/gallery/CBlmTKX

androxilogin

How could I connect a MicroSD adapter?

The pins don't line up right: https://imgur.com/gallery/CBlmTKX
Bend them and cut 1-2mm off. Fits perfect. Or you could take the long route and remove the whole thing, install a whole new pin header.

sanni

The smaller connector has the right pinout for the microSD module.



The mSD pinout is not marked on the PCB because I didn't have any space left though.

Beatchef

Anyone know a good place to buy a 62 pin connector aside from ebay & aliexpress? Being in Canada Ebay is minimum $30 shipping and aliexpress takes 2 months+.

I salvaged mine from another project but lost a couple pins on mine, and a few got bent out of shape.
I bought mine from Kingsworld Store on AliExpress and they turned up in less than a week to the UK. I'm assuming that means they have a UK distribution centre or they drop a lot of stuff in one go in the UK and then someone posts it from there. I'd assume if they do it in the UK they probably do in Canada too but you can contact them.

Beatchef

I accidentally got a 22uf ceramic capacitor instead of tantalum, does that matter? It has no polarity
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/cp/1084044,7883023,7883023P/?pst=C2012X5R1C226K125AC&sra=p
https://product.tdk.com/info/en/catalog/datasheets/mlcc_commercial_general_en.pdf

Also I've built the board and plugged it in and it turns on, and so does the screen and the menu appears with no errors so hopefully most things are soldered correctly. The buttons don't currently work but after a few seconds the NES menu is selected by itself so I'm hopeful I can sort that out if I can manage to desolder them and put them back on.
I guess it's too late to reflash the arduino to work with serial monitor at this point without resoldering things back onto the board?

 I haven't soldered the snes catridge slot in yet as I don't have that little plastic piece to go under it as I haven't been able to find anyone that will 3D print for less than £30 at the moment.. Is it okay to desolder the power barrel plug? The big 470uF capacitor is basically in the way of everything and if I can bend it the other way where the barrel plug would be that would be a big help.

Do you have any tips on how to solder the NES slot to the top of the NES to SNES adaptor? The recess on the underside of the NES slot is much wider than the width of the PCB and so it's not stable enough to have somewhere firm to solder the pins to. Do you push the pcb to one side of the slot and solder the pins flush, and then bend the pins on the other side to contact and then solder? It seems like it'd be quite fragile for now.

sanni

In theory there is a difference between tantalum and ceramic capacitors but it should not affect anything. I even use a 47uF electrolytic capacitor instead and it works flawlessly.

Either you forgot to solder the 10K resistors or you have shorted one of the button's legs with the case of the button by applying too much solder.
You can flash the Arduino to the Serial Monitor configuration at any time without desoldering anything.

You can leave the plastic thing off but then you have to trim the pins of the SNES slot after soldering because they will be too long and might touch the Arduino underneath. Be sure to wear eye protection as the clipped off pins will fly everywhere.
You can remove the barrel plug, it's not used anymore.

I usually put a little bit of hot glue on each end of the PCB to fix the NES slot in place so that it is centered. And then I bend the pins back to touch the PCB and solder them down, again wear eye protection here because the pins can spring back and launch the molten solder in your face.

Beatchef

Thank you for your help again! I got the buttons working after only brushing the soldering iron over two of the legs. I can't get serial monitor to recognise the Arduino at all any more but now the buttons are working I guess that doesn't matter unless there's a super cool update.

Oddly when just the N64 and GBA slots were installed, the menu would take about 8 seconds to load after the machine was switched on. After I added the ceramic capacitor, the other two slots and removed the barrel plug suddenly the menu instantly boots. The menu is unresponsive for about 5 seconds after boot though but that only seems to be with a N64 cart in. I'm pretty impressed that on only my second solder project I managed to get something this complicated working almost straight away, with surface mounted parts which i'd never done before. So anybody reading who is discouraged, if I can do it just about anyone can. Also thank you Sanni for labelling the PCB so well and doing the build video on top of everything else.

The only one thing I'd say about the wiki instructions is under needed Parts it says M2 self tapping screws, and doesn't mention the spacers. So I got the info for the spacer type via 'How To Build The PCB' which says M3 15mm spacers. I bought M2 screws and M3 PCB spacers not realising that the different numbers after the M are different sizes. M2 screws were far too small to screw into the spacers haha, but sure they will come in useful for another project.

kazmat

Hi sanni

I got many flashrom   Sharp LH28F016SCT-L95 from CISCO flash simm module.

Can you support this ?

datasheet is here.

https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Sharp%20PDFs/LH28F016SCT-L95,%20Aug%2098.pdf

TL866CS support this chip but I am happy if I can use in SNES & GB repro cart using your cartreader.


gloworm17

Sanni, just to confirm from post #1222, you can leave the snes spacer off and doesn't harm anything? Cause ummmmm..... I forgot to put it in during the build....  (Might I suggest adding a line break note "3D printed part is needed before soldering slots") Looking back, I see it now but when I was building I was going for the TLDR version and totally missed the little red part underneath. Oh well joke's on me... lol

sanni

Yes you can leave it off, just be sure to cut the pins of the SNES slot after soldering if they are too long.

androxilogin

#1227
Jun 09, 2020, 12:27 pm Last Edit: Jun 09, 2020, 01:10 pm by androxilogin
I posted a video yesterday revealing the basic construction if anyone is interested.

Also, @Sanni, some of your notes from this thread as well as two of your diagrams have been shown in this video. I hadn't even thought of it until now being that this is an open source project. So I hope that you are okay with this. If this is a problem, please let me know. I have no intention of posting anything without permission. Just one of those things you put in your notes while editing, add to your project to see how it would look and then it completely slips your mind when posted. There are of course credits embedded in the video during these popups and in the credits at the end.

I've also attached the simple dust covers I quickly threw together in SketchUp for this project.

sanni

Great video, thanks for posting.  :)

You can use/show anything I post, no worries.  8)


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